Review: A leap of genius at Frog by Adam Handling

When Michelin-starred chef Adam Handling founded his Covent Garden restaurant, Frog by Adam Handling, he said that the name was derived from comparing the leap of faith to launch a new restaurant in London to the feeling of ‘sink or swim’. 

“At the time, I said, ‘frogs live in water, so they are either going to sink or swim. Frog is what I will call my restaurant, as this is my test’,” he says. “I believe that if you adapt when you need to, you will never fail and so, luckily for all of us, we definitely swam.”

He’s not wrong. Frog is a wonderful experience from start to finish. The messaging is simple – sustainable, British luxury. 

As soon as you’re through the doors of this Covent Garden establishment, tucked away on Southampton Street, you’re immediately immersed in its very fabric. We, like all guests, are sat facing the kitchen, and our position next to the pass is a real treat. Here, one almost feels like a member of the team as the chefs occasionally swing by to describe the wonderful ingredients and their provenance, creating a wonderful interactive vibe. Giuseppe, Lorenzo and the front-of-house staff are unbelievably attentive but not overbearing. Their knowledge of the menu, ingredients used, and the point of origin is extensive and impressive.

First up are some snacks, an unexpected prelude to the £199 eight-course tasting menu. Small, perfectly formed tubes of tuna tartare, delicate egg pot covered with chicken skin crumble, chilli crab cigars, curried mussels and eel crackers. A refreshing cucumber tea follows as a perfect palate cleanser before we begin our official tasting journey. 

Our sommelier, Nadia, suggests a classic wine pairing option for our meal, with her truly exceptional knowledge and passion enhancing the experience beyond the exquisite wines she selects.   

Our starters kick off with sea bream, seaweed and spruce – a pretty, light and refreshing opener paired with a Greek wine: Malagouzia ‘Kalogeri’ from Domaine Papagiannokos.This is followed by Adam’s signature dish of lobster, wagyu and caviar, a description that is vastly understated and humble for this unbelievable plate of food. Perfectly poached Scottish blue lobster, swimming in a decadent, salty and spicy sauce made mostly of wagyu beef fat and caviar. It’s absolute unadulterated indulgence and a true show-stopper.

Sweet red mullet served with a spicy, aerated bisque and fiery British-made nduja followed, paired with a German Feinherb Frey Riesling, before moving on to our meat course of British pigeon breast with beetroot and truffle reduction. Again, such an understated description does little justice to the sweet and earthy flavours of the dish itself, which provide a real change of gear from the dishes prior – especially paired with a 2020 Channing Daughters Mudd West Vineyard Syrah, from the acclaimed Long Island, New York vineyard.

Dessert can often be underwhelming and sometimes even unwelcome after such an impressive range of dishes – but not at Frog. An old-school Black Forest gateau style dessert wraps up this exploration of British abundance. The sheer quality of chocolate and cherries elevates this dish beyond any run-of-the-mill pudding, and flavours are elevated further with Nadia’s choice of dessert wine – a 2023 Californian Black Muscat ‘Elysium’ by Andrew Quady. Insane quality of the chocolate took this pudding to a level that if served anywhere else would just be a run-of-the-mill pudding, and a letdown to a wonderful menu. The catch is that Handling is also a chocolatier, owning a beautiful shop, just a few doors down.

As a parting gift, we are presented with a beautifully packaged selection of chocolates from the Adam Handling Chocolate Shop, located just a few doors down from Frog, capping a truly exceptional culinary experience. 

Frog by Adam Handling is not just Michelin-starred luxury, but a restaurant that creates a truly relaxed atmosphere where you can immerse yourself in the experience. Everything in the restaurant has a sense of connection, taking guests on an unforgettable journey around the British Isles. Hop along and be amazed.

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