The French Connection

Bracketed by the verdant hills of Provence to one side, glittering azure sea on the other, and blue sky arching above, the coastal countryside of the Cote d’Azur has long been considered one of Europe’s most idyllic and glamorous locations.

Stretching from the Italian influences of the colourful commune of Menton and through the Principality of Monaco, where the legacy of Hollywood star-turned-princess Grace Kelly can still be felt, to cosmopolitan Nice and sunny Saint- Tropez, this sweep of Mediterranean coast has been a hub for the rich and stylish for decades.

It’s unsurprising that the siren song of great weather, sandy beaches, fine dining and high fashion has seen the area become a tourist trap in the summer season, attracting more than 14 million visitors each year. The region’s popularity is further heightened by a packed calendar of events, such as the Cannes Film Festival, Monaco Grand Prix, Monaco and Cannes Yacht Shows, Les Voiles de Saint- Tropez and more.

Thankfully, for those eager to avoid the crowds and return to the old magic of the Cote d’Azur, there is a simple way to have it all: travel off season. Outside of major events, September and October – or pre-season in April and May – offer temperate weather without the crush of tourists and with no shortage of luxuries to enjoy.

We begin our trip in Nice where, despite having left a rather chilly London behind, we’re greeted by blue skies and Mediterranean warmth in the mid-20 ̊Cs. As the central and largest city along the Cote d’Azur, Nice has all the charm of a European capital. 

It’s the perfect hub from which to plan a trip, shop in luxury boutiques and enjoy the Belle Époque and baroque architecture that lines the historic heart of the town. It’s in Nice that you will find the first glimpse of Italian influence in this region’s cuisine and style.

If you want to really soak in the Riviera ambiance, however, then Cannes is the place to be when lunchtime rolls round. Home to the world’s most glittering film festival and Europe’s largest yacht festival alike, Cannes is, in many ways, the celebrity of the region. Wealthy visitors flock to Cannes each year to enjoy the sight of enormous megayachts, designer shopping along La Croisette, and world-class dining.

And while such fine establishments are tempting, the local restaurants dotting the paths at the Port de Cannes call out with freshly caught moules and well-chilled champagne – the perfect fuel for our afternoon meander west across the Bay de Cannes – which inspired Picasso’s famous romantic landscape scene – and through the many charming villages that line the way to Saint-Tropez.

How the sleepy fishing village of Saint-Tropez became synonymous with high luxury is almost down to screen goddess Brigitte Bardot. A fearless actor, timeless style icon and patron saint of Saint- Tropez, Brigitte first arrived in the village in 1956 to film And God Created Woman – the film that catapulted her to international stardom – and her star power soon transformed the area into a playground for the Superyacht set.

So encompassing was Brigitte’s allure that she is even the inspiration behind of one of the village’s most remarkable landmarks: Hôtel Byblos Saint- Tropez. Infatuated with the actress, despite never having met her, Lebanese hotelier Jean-Prosper Gay-Para set about building a hotel worthy of Brigitte in attempt to win her heart.

Designed to mimic the traditional Lebanese villages near Gay-Para’s home of Byblos, and brought to life with enchanting mosaics and sculptures dotted about the sumptuous grounds, the result was a mix of culture and cool at the heart of the Riviera. While Brigitte did visit the hotel once – to attend the opening party in 1967 – Gay-Para sold the hotel and its soon-to-be legendary nightclub, Les Caves duRoy,toentrepreneurSylvainFloiratinJuneof the same year.

Today, Byblos is quite unlike any hotel in the region. Now run by Sylvain’s great grandson Antoine Chevanne, who has extended the hotel to encompass 87 rooms (including 47 suites), Byblos retains its Lebanese-Mediterranean charm while injecting unique design and personality into every room. The most exciting by far is the recently launched Missoni Suite, a sprawling 180sqm apartment suite design by the colourful fashion house and overlooking the hotel’s courtyard and pool.

Executive chef Nicola Canuti – formerly executive chef of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester – presides over the hotel’s gastronomy, including Arcadia Saint-Tropez, with it’s delicious take on Mediterranean fare, to Cucina Byblos’ taste of authentic Italy. The Italian chef’s mastery is evident in the

finely made pastas and organic herbs – many of chef Nicola’s ingredients come from his 300sqm agroecological garden on the hotel’s ground – and seasonal ingredients dominant the changing menus, much to our delight. We would advise vegetarians and vegans to let the restaurants know dietary preferences ahead of dining, as meat-free options are few and far between at dinner – though the off-menu vegetarian ratatouille chef Nicola whips up for us is delicious enough to be a house fixture.

Evenings are full of music, even pre-season, before Les Caves opens its famous doors to visitors keen to dance the night away at the favourite European nightclub of the Rolling Stones, Lauren Bacall, Jack Nicholson and Naomi Campbell. Live music is hosted in Lounge-Bar “B”, where guests can enjoy delicious cocktails and snacks while being serenaded by talented local musicians.

During the day, Byblos is a hub of relaxation above the bustle of shops and cafés in the village below. Lounge by the pool at the heart of the resort or indulge in a spa treatment or hammam at Spa Sisley, where the signature aromatherapy massages, body scrubs and facials wiped any hint of stress away.

For a truly indulgent day, however, Byblos Beach is a must-visit for hotel guests. A natural extension of the hotel’s service, this elegant private beach club is short drive away on the Pampelonne beach front and encompasses a restaurant serving light Mediterranean cuisine and luxuriously comfortable sun loungers from where we lazed the day away, sipping on cocktails to the soothing backdrop of crashing waves, our leisure interrupted only by my occasional urge to take a bracing dip in the sea.

No trip to this region would be complete without a sojourn in the Principality of Monaco. Even along the affluent riviera, with its glittering stretch of holiday mansions, superyachts and five-star lifestyle, Monte-Carlo is still synonymous with excess.

At the heart of this 202-hectare citystate is the Place du Casino, a palm tree-lined square renovated by landscaper Michel Desvigne in 2020. The Place is lined on each side by the city’s best examples of Belle Époque architecture – the Hôtel de Paris, Café de Paris Monte-Carlo and, of course, the Casino de Monte-Carlo itself, with contemporary artist Anish Kapoor’s The Sky Mirror sculpture taking its place at the centre of the stone esplanade.

Idle away the hours at the Café or take some time shopping at the surrounding designer boutiques, before meandering along the promenade toward Port Hercule and its year-round display of remarkable superyachts. If you want an elegant stay that embodies Monaco’s reputation for personalised luxury and keeps you right in the heart of the action, there is only one choice.

Turning into the famous courtyard of the Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo is breathtaking. It is lined with greenery and supercars alike, while Givenchy’s eponymous spa towers to the left and Michelin-star restaurant Yoshi to the right. The hotel was first built in 1886 on land belonging to Pope Leon XIII, and its most recent renovations have only enhanced the building’s original magic. The uplift coincides perfectly with Metropole’s renewed determination to give its guests extra personalisation – from a programme of art installations in the foyer to private evening tours of the Oceanographic Museum – and even arranging elaborate proposals for romantic visitors. The hotel’s rooms and suites are equally refined and sumptuously decorated – particularly Jacques Garcia’s Carré d’Or suite, which offers panoramic views of Monte-Carlo from its 110sqm terrace.

The rooms overlook the hotel’s Odyssey Lounge and heated sea-water pool, which is surrounded by a stylish glass fresco-styled installation designed by Karl Lagerfeld. Not to be outdone in the fashion stakes, of course, the hotel’s Spa Metropole by Givenchy is an oasis for the senses. From the moment I step inside, it is a balm away from the bustling city, with a range of bespoke scents to choose from, soothing music and fluffy bathrobes.

Givenchy’s range of skin treatments are the perfect way to destress the skin or rejuvenate after a sunny holiday. I opt for the spa’s signature facial ‘Le Soin Noir’ – which offers 90 minutes of buffing, massaging and moisturising my face and neck until I am a relaxed and pampered puddle of perfectly toned and aglow features. An haute couture experience, indeed.

With my skin fully nourished, it’s time to excite my tastebuds. For lunch, dining poolside at the lounge’s restaurant terrace is a lovely way to prepare for an afternoon of shopping but, for the true Metropole experience, Yoshi is a must-visit.

This restaurant is a masterpiece of Japanese cuisine, revitalised by the late Joël Robuchon and a favourite haunt of Monaco’s famous citizens – including a number of racing drivers. We are treated to Chef Takeo Yamazaki’s choice of dishes: first teased with a range of outstanding sushi starters before moving on to enjoy a perfectly prepared marinated and grilled black cod, all finished by a divine pistachio with almond panna cotta dish.

With body and soul fully replenished from my stay, I was confident there could be no more surprises possible from this grand dame hotel. Until the morning, that is, when taking breakfast on the lobby terrace we find ourselves with a track-side seat to the Monaco ePrix’s qualifying laps as electric race cars zip dramatically round the Mirabeau Haute corner, just hours before we ready ourselves to leave. Truly the heart of the action.