Chef’s Table: Michelin star chef Agnar Sverrisson on Icelandic cuisine, Dom Pérignon and his comfort foods

Chef Agnar Sverrisson is one of the most innovative chefs currently working in Iceland. He is the executive chef at Moss, the acclaimed Michelin-star restaurant in the Retreat at Blue Lagoon, Iceland. Here, Agnar lets his imagination run wild, integrating Asian flavours as he transforms seasonal ingredients into timeless gourmet experiences. 

With boundless passion for his craft and encyclopaedic knowledge of Iceland’s endless bounty of nourishment, Agnar is an explorer of the country’s culinary frontiers, reinventing the past as he pushes the boundaries of the future. At Moss, Agnar is incorporating the shapes, patterns, colors, and textures of Iceland, bringing forth a memorable and immersive dining journey. 

In 2024, he also became the only Nordic chef to have the honour of being a Dom Pérignon ambassador, with the restaurant joining the prestigious invite-only Dom Pérignon Society, which allows Moss to offer rare vintages from the brand to its customers.

So, for the April edition of our Chef’s Table series, we met with chef Agnar Sverrisson to talk about his love for Icelandic cuisine, working with Dom Pérignon and his comfort favourite foods.You head up the acclaimed Icelandic restaurant Moss. What sets your menu apart?
Moss is one of only three Michelin-starred restaurants in Iceland, which gives it a strong identity in the Icelandic culinary landscape. Our menu is a direct reflection of the Reykjanes Peninsula, shaped by volcanic terrain, geothermal energy and the wild seas. It also aligns with the Blue Lagoon’s wider mission of healing, renewal and wellbeing. Moss takes pride in using the very best ingredients available globally, alongside a core commitment to sustainability and local sourcing. We work closely with Icelandic farmers, greenhouse growers and artisanal producers to bring Iceland’s best ingredients to the table. Many of our vegetables are grown in geothermally heated greenhouses, which supports local food production in a way that is both environmentally mindful and flavour forward. 

How would you describe your style as a chef? What do you want your guests to experience when they come to your restaurant?
My style is rooted in exploration of landscape, seasonality and Iceland’s culinary heritage. At Moss, our team are gatherers and interpreters of Iceland’s natural larder, working with ingredients from the mountains, rivers, fjords and ocean. Simplicity and respect for the ingredient are at the heart of our approach. When you work with exceptional produce, the role of the chef is to let those ingredients speak for themselves. When guests dine with us, I want them to feel as though they are travelling through Iceland. I am also proud of our collaborations that elevate the Moss experience beyond food alone. For example, our champagne and caviar offering, featuring Hið norðlenzka styrjufélag’s Icelandic caviar, and our curated wine tasting menus in partnership with Dom Pérignon Society add a unique dimension to dining at Moss. These partnerships allow us to offer rare vintages and world-class pairings that complement the cuisine.Where did your passion for cooking come from?
I did not grow up dreaming of becoming a chef. I started working in a restaurant in Reykjavík at 16 because my parents suggested I give it a try. The first months were difficult with long hours and hard work, but after reading White Heat by Marco Pierre White, I found a passion for the craft that changed my life. That book and that moment set me on the path I am on today.

Moss obtained its Michelin star in 2023 and has retained it ever since. How does that feel? What lessons have you learned?
Receiving a Michelin star is a tremendous honour and a validation of the work we do as chefs – I’ll never forget the feeling of achieving my first back at Texture, London, in 2010, and it is just as much of a thrill here at Moss. It is also a responsibility that motivates us to stay true to our values, to keep refining our approach and to continually strive for excellence. One of the biggest lessons I have learned is the importance of patience, respect and consistency. A Michelin-level kitchen thrives on calm, focus and mutual respect. You have to lead by example, manage yourself well and support your team in doing their best work. This environment of respect and discipline is what allows creativity and quality to flourish.Having worked in London, what are the key differences between the Icelandic and UK restaurant scenes?
My thirteen years heading up Texture were formative for me. London is ambitious, fast-paced and full of diversity and talent. Working there early in my career shaped my understanding of seasonality, technique and hospitality, and gave me a level of experience that can only be found from the international culinary scene. At home in Iceland, the pace is gentler and the sense of community is strong. This environment allows us to focus deeply on sustainability, on forging long-term relationships with local producers and on presenting the very best of Icelandic ingredients in their purest form. It suits where I am in my career and allows Moss to be a platform for modern Icelandic cuisine presented to a global audience.

You are the only Nordic chef to be honoured as a Dom Pérignon ambassador. How does that feel?
It is a great honour and an exciting opportunity. Dom Pérignon is synonymous with precision, heritage and refinement, and these values resonate with what we aim to achieve at Moss. As part of the Dom Pérignon Society we are able to host exclusive events and offer rare vintages that enrich the culinary experience for our guests. It’s a real honour to have that position in a global network I have admired for years and the partnership enhances how we think about food and drinks together, and allows us to bring something truly special to those who dine with us.Away from the restaurant, what is your ultimate personal comfort food or favourite ingredient?
Skyr, which is an Icelandic cultured dairy, is something I have always loved. It is incredibly versatile and rooted in our food culture. At home we would mix skyr with cream and berries, and it was something I grew up with. Today, I use skyr in many of our dishes, from dressings to desserts, because it adds freshness and depth without heaviness. I also love traditional Icelandic smoked and salted lamb, a product of our preservation heritage that remains deeply connected to our culinary identity.

Why is this comfort food to you? Do you have any special memories associated with the dish?
Skyr brings back memories of family breakfasts and simple meals shared at home. It is a taste of home and of Icelandic food culture that I carry with me. Combining skyr with fresh berries or honey was a treat in my childhood, and those memories are part of what makes it so comforting.

Who are some of your chef heroes?
Raymond Blanc has had a profound influence on me as a mentor, teacher and friend. Working in his kitchen taught me more than technique, it taught me how to lead with respect and creativity. I continue to look to him for inspiration in both culinary and professional life. 

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