TOKii: Outstanding Japanese cuisine in the heart of Mayfair

The Prince Akatoki is a five-star hotel situated within a short walk from Marble Arch and Hyde Park, and from the outside may not look like the kind of building that would house a superb modern Japanese restaurant – although the name of the hotel, meaning sunrise in archaic form of Japanese, may be something of a giveaway.

And stepping through its doors, one realises that there is plenty to give away. Inside site TOKii, one of London's most sought-after Japanese establishments, which I had been invited to try for Tempus.

As we walked in, we were greeted by a friendly host who led us down the hallway to The Malt Lounge and Bar, which resembles the inside of a Minka, a traditional Japanese building, and encapsulates the establishment's ethos of minimalism, defined on the drinks menu as aiming to “reduce and limit excess, in favour of focusing on what is really important in a bid to find happiness, fulfilment and freedom”. 

This, we would find out, is achieved through the bar's cautious use of ingredients, carefully curated so as to complement each other gently, with the aim of creating the “perfect flavour profile” in every cocktail. We were first presented with the Ume cocktail – a concoction of Renegade Gin, Mancino Rosso Amaranto Vermouth, Akashi Tai Umeshu and Rinomato Bitter Scuro – I was pleased to find the blend offered an invigorating twist on a classic Negroni. 

The bar menu is extensive and of the options we tried, the Momo (a take on a Bellini) concocted using a blend of Peach Liqueur, Muyu Jasmine, Sake and Japanese White Peach Cordial and Veuve Clicquot, was a luscious, sweet offering which was balanced by a delicate zing from the dry Champagne. This all-too-easy-to-drink cocktail could be enjoyed with most courses.

Once our cocktail glasses were drained, our waitress seated us in the middle of the eatery, the placement of our table giving us a full view of the impressive sushi bar behind which the master of sushi can be seen performing his craft. The décor is simple and understated, but quality materials such as oak tables provide a luxury feel. 

As we chewed on edamame beans, we were talked through an array of must-try dishes, most of which are designed for sharing. We started with moreish lotus crisps and miso caramel chicken wing skewers which were satisfyingly flavorsome and succulent.

We opted for the chef's selection of sashimi and nigiri, which was presented flawlessly and consisted of fine cuts of salmon belly, fatty tuna, yellowtail and more – each mouthful melting into the palette with minimal bite required. After this, we were brought the shrimp tempura maki rolls which were every bit as delicious as the sashimi and nigiri.

For mains, we opted for the hot stone Japanese wagyu grade A5 beef, served with grilled vegetables, spicy ponzu and Japanese mustard mayo, while our waitress recommended we also try the grilled hispi cabbage in miso butter and Japanese slaw in a yuzu vinaigrette alongside.

As you'd expect the wagyu is butter-like in texture and incredibly indulgent, the grilled vegetables added a firmer bite to the dish and the mustard mayo added a unique touch. The grilled cabbage pleasantly accompanies the waygu, slowly releasing a divine taste of miso, while the Japanese slaw – consisting of raw cabbage covered in yuzu vinaigrette – added a refreshing taste and would be enjoyed by those who like a sharp tang to their salad dressings. 

Following the wagyu, we then indulged in a second shared main of miso-glazed black cod, served with sweetcorn fried rice. Despite our satisfaction with the last main the black cod defined, for us, the ethos of the restaurant: removing distraction in the form of surroundings and focusing on quality ingredients to offer outstanding Japanese cuisine. The fried rice had the consistency of paella rice and worked perfectly with the delicate cod. 

For desserts, we tried the yuzu meringue pie and dark chocolate fondant. The latter was served with a refreshing matcha ice cream and was enjoyable although not as sweet as expected. The meringue pie, served with a sesame brittle and edible flowers, was delicate in taste but extremely sweet, which is well-suited to my tastes, but not so much my dining companion's. 

TOKii's minimalistic approach when it comes to decor truly allows for the intricacy of the food to take center stage, and so it should, its Japanese cuisine has been well-thought-out down to the tiniest of elements. Its sushi offerings, carefully curated by a master from Japan provide an unmatchable and memorable experience as does the intimacy of sharing the dishes with family and friends.

Not to mention the bar, which offers sublime concoctions in an unpretentious yet sophisticated environment – the fact it is less obvious to find in comparison to nearby restaurants/bars only adds to its allure. 

tokii.co.uk