Review: Sushi Amamoto is a masterclass in Japanese fine dining

London has no shortage of incredible Japanese fine dining restaurants, but very few are on the level of Sushi Amamoto, which brings Shogo Amamoto’s award winning omakase experience to London. This is the first international restaurant from the executive chef patron, bringing his hugely popular intimate dining concept to the discerning foodies of Mayfair.

Widely recognised for his meticulous, highly individual approach to Edomae-style sushi, Shogo Amamoto treats each piece as a complete dish rather than a simple bite. Such is his popularity, that his Taipei restaurant often has a year-long waitlist. His cooking and presentation exemplify balance, temperature, texture and restraint. And at Sushi Amamoto, he marries these principles with the natural rhythm of Britain’s seasons using local ingredients at their best and the finest quality fish at its peak. 

This 16-seater omakase restaurant is an experience like no other. We enter into a tranquil room with the chefs ready to greet us at the counter. Once at our seat, we are met with a 22-course evening menu that will take us through a culinary tour of Japan, while also teaching us the many food traditions of each region along the way.Before the experience begins, we are offered an extensive choice of wine or sakes to go with our meals. I chose the Aramasa sake from Akita, which was a great accompaniment to the meal. My friend, meanwhile, opted for a non-alcoholic alternative, which included a great selection of sparkling teas and alcohol-free wines. Omakase literally means ‘leave it up to the chef’ and what follows is a masterclass in Japanese fine dining.

Each course at Sushi Amamoto hero’s a specific ingredient. First up was an egg custard with truffle and mushroom, which was deliciously creamy, with just the right amount of umami from the truffle. Then came the krupa sashimi with ponzu sauce, followed by red mullet and mouthwatering Japanese seaweed. One of my favourite courses of the meal came early on in the form of mochi, which is handmade everyday at the restaurant and has caviar on top. It was a true highlight, with the creamy caviar pairing perfectly with the crisp mochi.

As it is with any omakase experience, it can never be complete without a generous nigiri course – and Sushi Amamoto does not disappoint in that regard. From three different types of tuna to prawn and yellowtail, the nigiris were melt-in-your-mouth delectable, with the fatty tuna being a standout. There was also a tempura course which was simply incredible.The next course was one of the most unique by far – foie gras made from monkfish liver exclusive to London, which is made into a savoury ice cream sandwich with caramel sauce and a chocolate coating on the outside. I can safely say that this is one of the most original creations I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting.

Another dish that left us captivated was the restaurant’s signature trout dish oshizushi (pressed sushi), which for my money is one of the most beautiful sushi dishes ever created. It is made using an oshizushihako press box, which the chef spins, making for a wonderfully theatrical showstopper. For a concept that is quite understated, this little bit of theatre was a great additional touch. The sushi, of course, was extremely scrumptious, and could be eaten by wrapping it up in a seaweed taco.

Towards the end of the savoury courses, we were presented with a bowl of piping hot miso soup, and I don’t know about you, but I’ve never met a miso soup I didn’t like. This one was no different. A classic that has been elevated to fine dining standards, it was a great warming palate cleanser before we moved on to the colder desserts. From dehydrated pumpkin to a dish that highlighted the versatility of strawberry, the desserts were the perfect way to wrap up what had been a genuinely delightful experience. Dining at Sushi Amamoto is an experience unlike any other. It is like taking a gastronomic tour of Japan without ever leaving London that makes you want to sit and reflect on the culinary journey you just went through, all while leaving you with an even deeper appreciation of the food culture and traditions of the country.

And as we were leaving the restaurant, the chef himself opened the door to the exit, greeting each customer with a firm handshake, and a warm greeting for the evening ahead. Such a simple touch, but it made a world of difference, leaving me with an experience that I will truly never forget – and one I simply couldn’t recommend enough.

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