Prep Yourself: A look into Pitti Uomo’s greatest preppy hits

Tempus style columnist Rikesh Chauhan heads to Pitti Uomo for Italy’s take on this season’s preppiest serves

Pitti UomoTwice a year, the world’s best-dressed men and women set up camp in Florence for a week of eating and drinking — and being photographed eating and drinking. Restaurants are booked months in advance, bars are overflowing well into the early hours of the morning, and the city’s dependency on coffee goes up three-fold. At least, that’s what Pitti Uomo looks like on social media. 

For those on the ground, it’s a playground for tastemakers and designers obsessed with craftsmanship. It’s the only place where a suitable icebreaker involves slowly caressing someone’s suit lapel and softly asking: ‘What cloth is that?’

As a photographer and menswear writer, it’s a chance for me to assess what people around the world are wearing and, particularly, how they are wearing it. It’s also another opportunity for me to see firsthand that tailoring is still thriving – and people still look significantly cooler in suits than any other mode of dress. Even actor Jeff Goldblum, who looks good in basically everything.

This year, the three major trends really hark back to 1990s-era Ralph Lauren with a touch of ’70s nostalgia for good measure — or, as someone on Instagram put it: ‘Old money meets skater boy. Slightly but not too-oversized double-breasted jackets, baseball caps and wide-legged trousers are what we’re going to get into this time around.Pitti UomoThere’s no one that cuts a suit quite like the Edward Sexton team. It’s been over a year since Mr Sexton passed away, but the team now at the helm are ensuring his legacy remains in good hands.

One of their new offerings this summer is the return of the Oxford Bags. In white linen perfect for summer, these wideboys are voluminous and incredibly fun. Beautifully proportioned, they’ll look just as good on someone who’s 5ft 6in as they do on someone who’s 6ft 5in (I certainly fall into the former category).

If you’re looking for something in a more traditional two-piece but want to be comfortable in summer as well as autumn, a heavy linen suit in a darker colourway will be your go-to. J Mueser seems to do no wrong at present, and this Olive Wool-Linen Blend Waverly Suit is certainly my pick of the brand’s incredible lookbook.

Finally, if you’re anything like me and have no time to groom yourself in the way you deserve, something to stick atop your head is usually a great solution. I have really gotten into baseball caps and, fortunately, it seems every brand in the world has, too. When there’s almost too much choice, I revert to my old favourite, Drake’s. This cap is punchy, well-constructed and will look relatively in-keeping when worn with neutral, muted tones.

Bad hair days, be gone.White Linen Oxford Bag Trousers by Edward Sexton

Generous in proportion and rich in linen, the Oxford Bags are back with a ’70s-inspired bang. Based on original patterns by Edward Sexton and Tommy Nutter, the generous proportions of the leg allows for a full flowing drape and rich linen blend.

edwardsexton.co.ukOlive Wool-Linen Waverly Suit by J Mueser

A single-breasted Waverly suit structured from the softest wool linen blend from Madison Woolen. This is a suit that’s appropriate for any occasion, thanks to its classic lines, beautiful colours and effortless style. It’s the J Mueser way.

jmeuser.comYellow Chambray Baseball Cap by Drake’s

Inspired by vintage souvenir hats and sports caps picked up by the Drake’s team on their travels, this will certainly add a pop of personality to your preppy athletics. This six-panel baseball cap is constructed from a fine needlecord with a soft crown.

drakes.com

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