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Natural Wonder: Exploring the contemporary cool and wild landscapes of Iceland
By Harry Malmstrom | 30 January 2025 | Travel
Whether you’re seeking a unique city break or are ready to dive into untouched landscapes, Iceland’s almost mythical geography has it all. We explore the contemporary cool and wild landscapes of the land of ice and fire
With vast, ever-shifting landscapes complemented by culture that places heavy emphasis on coexisting with and, indeed, championing nature, Iceland is a truly unique land. Rugged mountains give way to immense waterfalls that cascade down onto the black sand beaches of this volcanic island situated in the middle of the North Atlantic.
And amid all this untamed wilderness there is serious luxury to be found, whether you are looking for a city break or to retreat into the wilds.
Our journey begins in the heart of Iceland’s capital, where the Reykjavik Edition opened in 2021 as the city’s first truly luxury hotel experience. This incredible addition to the five-star Edition brand certainly lives up to expectations.
Approaching the hotel, situated on the harbour against a backdrop of the Esjan mountain and legendary Snafellsjökull glacier, I am captured by the elegance of its modern features, blending seamlessly with natural materials that reflect its location in one of the world’s most innovative yet sustainable capitals.
In the lobby, a unique sculptural totem of stacked Icelandic lava rock stands imposingly in the centre – mimicking the many traditional stone cairns dotted around the country’s wilds and surrounded by plumped velvet pillows and inviting faux furs on which to lounge. Large columns wrapped in terracotta leather reflect the warm glow of the open-flame fireplace from the lobby bar, which offers a selection of classic cocktails with an Icelandic twist, all to be enjoyed while taking in the atmospheric digital artwork of the aurora borealis projected on the wall, dubbed Northern Lights on Demand.
Upstairs, our suite gives the feel of a log cabin in the middle of a city, adorned with warm woods, hand crafted furniture, copper fixtures and faux furs throughout. Boasting a double bathroom with rainfall shower, a spacious bedroom and large living area, the experience is completed by stunning vistas of the North Atlantic Ocean, Mount Esja and the famous Harpa Concert Hall.
As tempting as it is to stay in the decadent comfort of my room, there is more to explore in the city. Enjoy a moment of silent reflection at Iceland’s largest church, Hallgrimskirkja, which towers over Reykjavik in stature and sound (it is host to the country’s largest organ, with 5,275 pipes); visit a live lava show to witness a flow of molten rock come pouring into the showroom and even take a piece of it home with you; or take a walking tour of the capital’s food scene — which would not be complete without enjoying a hotdog at the famous Bajarins Beztu Pylsur, a favourite of Bill Clinton’s when he visited back in 2004. More recently it has seen cast members from Game of Thrones, Ben Stiller (who filmed most of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty in Iceland) — and even Kim Kardashian has been papped here.
After a day of exploring, the Edition’s gym and social spa are perfect for winding down. As well as various treatments, the spa hosts a hammam, steam room, sauna and plunge pools all complemented by the central spa bar, which offers a variety of healthy post-workout snacks and drinks – as well as champagne for ultimate indulgence.
For an aperitif or two, the hotel’s bars each offers a unique experience; Tölt provides a cosier, more intimate setting for those in the mood to relax, while The Roof’s unparalleled panoramic views showcase the hotel’s harbour and mountain views – as well as a chance to see the Northern Lights during the colder months.
However, for me, there is only one way to end our night at the Edition, and that is at Tides, the hotel’s signature restaurant and one of the best meals I had during my time exploring Iceland.
The simplicity of Tide’s traditional cooking methods really allows for the quality of the locally sourced produce to shine. Looking out onto the bay – where most of the seafood were treated to was sourced – as I enjoy my meal with an expertly chosen wine pairing, I find it hard to describe this as anything other than a perfect end to the ultimate Icelandic city break — and the ideal preparation for the otherworldly experiences still to come.
OTHERWORLDLY LUXURY
No trip to Iceland would be complete without a road trip through the rocky lava fields southwest of Reykjavik to explore one of National Geographic’s 25 wonders of the world: the famous Blue Lagoon. But this is no ordinary visit, as we visit the five-star Retreat Hotel. Driving down a long, narrow road flanked by seemingly endless fields of jagged rock, it’s hard to believe we’re on our way to a luxury retreat and have not, in fact, been transported to another planet.
Upon arrival, we are greeted with a glass of champagne and a view of the Retreat’s private lagoon from the colossal windows of its cavernous lobby: I am immediately filled with a sense of serenity I have seldom felt, as gentle music echoes off the stone and a wood-burning fire emanates its warm glow. Here, guests are encouraged to roam the Retreat in robes and slippers provided by the hotel – one almost feels out of place wearing normal clothes, despite having just arrived, and so we hurry to our suite to better prepare for our stay.
That feeling of being on another world continues as we are led through the doors of our jaw-dropping suite. Diffused lighting and stunning décor create a cosy atmosphere, while the floor-to-ceiling windows offer uninterrupted views of moss-carpeted lava fields and the mountains that surround the lagoon.
Robes and slippers quickly donned; we headed for a dip in the private lagoon. Offering the same pristine, mineral-rich waters as the main part of the Blue Lagoon but without all the hustle and bustle of locals and other tourists, this allows you to truly relax and appreciate the rejuvenating effects of the geothermal waters.
When we finally manage to pry ourselves from the lagoon’s warm embrace, we take a leisurely stroll through the Retreat’s other spa areas, discovering sensory rooms designed for pure relaxation: such as the Lava Spring, with a glass-ceiling that creates a meditative sensation of a subterranean waterfall, and the Fire Room, offering loungers and sofas surrounding a firepit. The journey through the spa culminates with the Blue Lagoon Ritual, a spacious cavern of interconnected chambers, each with a self-applied treatment highlighting the Blue Lagoon’s natural treasures: silica, microalgae, minerals and lava. Completing the ritual, as I exit the atmospherically lit chambers I feel healthier than ever, my mind clear and at peace.
While it’s tempting to spend our entire trip enjoying the waters of the lagoon, the Retreat also offers daytrips, such as whale-watching, fly-fishing and kayaking through the fjords – or even Blue Lagoon Research and Development Centre, where scientists cultivate naturally occurring microalgae and refine the salts and silica from the waters into the new BL+ Skincare range.
Dinner at the Retreat’s two restaurants is equally interesting. Lava’s more casual but by no means less praiseworthy restaurant is inset in an 800-year-old lava plateau, offering classic Icelandic cuisine to be enjoyed while overlooking the stunning blue waters of the lagoon – a fitting end to a day of relaxation.
The pièce de resistance, however, is an evening at Moss restaurant. With a dining room that looks out at the volcanic horizon and. indeed. mimics the impressive landscape through stunning architectural features, we are treated to what I will unashamedly say is the best meal I have ever had.
The seven-course tasting menu takes us on a culinary tour of the island, from the mountains and farmlands to the sea and rivers. Chef Agnar “Aggi” Sverrisson demonstrates his immense passion for his homeland’s cuisine and more than justifies his Michelin-star credentials. Each course is both a visual delight and a beautiful piece of storytelling of its seasonal produce from autumn vegetables topped with a parmesan broth and choux pastries, succulent cod in a subtle Thai green curry sauce with caviar, to lobster with pickled cucumber. The highlight of the menu is, by far, the mustard-crusted Icelandic lamb – reared from a single lineage going back over 1,000 years and so rare and tender it makes Wagyu beef seem an everyday treat in comparison.
This was of course all paired with an exquisite array of wines, pulled from the cellar seated deep beneath the restaurant; carved lava frozen-in-time from when it erupted in 1226. With the perfect balance of flavour;, views, warmly attentive waiting staff, and environment, to call this a mere meal would be a disservice to an experience that I never wanted to end.
On our flight home the following evening, as we watch the awesome sight of the Northern Lights from 35,000ft above the ground, I feel as though I am taking some of Iceland’s serenity with me — a feeling I hope will last me until I can return to this wild and stunning country.