Chef’s Table: Rohit Ghai talks Vatavaran, Indian cuisine and his comfort favourites

Chef Rohit Ghai is no stranger to Indian culinary excellence. He owns a number of restaurants around the world — three of which are in London. The Michelin star chef has just opened his third London restaurant, Vatavaran, in Knightsbridge, and seems to have no plans of stopping.

Vatavaran, meaning ‘atmosphere’ in Sanskrit, draws inspiration from the serene landscapes of the Himalayas, and promises to be a unique addition to London’s dining scene, offering not only luxurious dishes but an immersive space that transitions seamlessly from day to night.

From growing up learning the culinary ropes from his mother in his native city of Punjab to working in some of the most renowned fine dining Indian restaurants in the UK and earning a Michelin star along the way, Rohit Ghai’s journey has been exemplary. So for the December instalment of our Chef’s Table series, we decided to end the year on a high by speaking with one of the most sought after Indian chefs in the UK.

Here, Rohit Ghai tells us all about his new restaurant, the chefs he looks up to, how he got his start in the kitchen and the foods that comfort him the most.You head up the fine dining restaurants Manthan, Kutir and now Vatavaran. What sets your menu apart?
At Vatavaran, the menu stands apart from [my other London restaurants] Kutir and Manthan by focusing on the rare and indigenous ingredients of the Himalayan region, blending modern techniques and pan-Indian dishes with the essence of the mountains. While Kutir celebrated the wilderness and Manthan explored coastal flavours, Vatavaran draws inspiration from the diverse landscapes of the Himalayas, offering dishes like robata-grilled wild tiger prawns and slow-cooked lamb shank biryani that evoke the rugged, elemental qualities of the mountains. The use of unique ingredients such as Himalayan juniper berries and fiddlehead fern, alongside the immersive, multi-sensory dining experience, creates a journey that mirrors the terrain itself. Ultimately, Vatavaran offers a culinary adventure that combines bold flavours, seasonal ingredients, and a deeper connection to the Himalayan landscape.

How would you describe your style as a chef? What do you want your guests to experience?
I would describe my style as a fusion of tradition and innovation. I draw deeply from my Indian roots, using the bold, vibrant flavours and techniques that have been passed down through generations. However, I approach these traditional elements with a modern sensibility, often using contemporary techniques and global influences to bring out new layers of complexity. The goal is to elevate these classic Indian flavours and present them in a refined, yet accessible way.

When guests come to experience my food, I want them to feel a sense of discovery. Each dish should tell a story – whether it’s about a place, an ingredient, or a memory from my own journey as a chef. I want them to experience the depth of Indian cuisine, but in a way that surprises and delights them. It’s about balance: the comfort of the familiar combined with the excitement of the unexpected. Ultimately, I want them to leave with a new appreciation for the flavours of India and a sense that they’ve been on a culinary journey that’s both familiar and fresh at the same time.You just opened your third fine dining restaurant in London with Vatavaran. What can guests expect to experience from the restaurant?
At Vatavaran, guests can expect a truly immersive and multi-sensory dining experience that transports them to the serene landscapes of the Himalayas. The restaurant spans multiple levels, each representing a different element of the mountain range, from the fresh, clear air of the valleys to the lofty heights of the peaks. The menu showcases rare ingredients from the region, with dishes like robata-grilled wild tiger prawns and slow-cooked lamb shank biryani, offering bold flavours and innovative presentations. The experience is enhanced by interactive cocktails at Shikhar, the exclusive bar, where guests can craft their own drinks inspired by traditional Indian sweets. Every detail, from the design to the food and drinks, is designed to immerse guests in a sensory journey that reflects the natural beauty and cultural richness of the Himalayas.

You have such a storied culinary career — including earning a Michelin star. Where did your passion for cooking come from?
My passion for cooking started from a very young age. Growing up in India, food was always at the heart of family life. I was fortunate to be surrounded by a rich culinary tradition where cooking was a way of expressing love, heritage, and culture. My early memories are filled with the smells and sounds of my family preparing traditional dishes, which sparked my curiosity and admiration for the process. It was in my teens that I realised cooking was more than just a pastime for me — it was a way of creating something meaningful, of telling stories through flavours. I pursued formal training, first in India and later at renowned institutions across Europe. The idea of being able to take something as simple as ingredients and transform them into a sensory experience fascinated me.

Receiving a Michelin star was a defining moment in my career, but it wasn’t just about recognition. It was a validation of the hard work and dedication that went into my craft, as well as a deep connection to the traditional flavours of India, which I’ve always tried to elevate through modern techniques and innovation. For me, cooking has always been a blend of respecting tradition and pushing boundaries.Away from the restaurant, what is your ultimate personal comfort food or favourite dish?
My ultimate personal comfort food has to be dal chawal – a hearty, comforting dish of tempered yellow lentils with a bit of spice, served alongside plain basmati rice. To make it even more special, I always enjoy it with some cooling raita, crispy roasted papad, and a dollop of homemade pickle that adds an extra punch of flavour. It’s simple, yet so satisfying. Another dish that’s deeply close to my heart is sarson ka saag with makke ki roti, which my mum makes like no one else. It’s a traditional Punjabi comfort food – slow-cooked mustard greens paired with cornmeal flatbread, full of earthy flavours. It brings back so many warm memories of family meals and feels like a true taste of home.

Why is this a comfort food to you? Do you have any special memories associated with the dish?
Sarson ka saag and makke ki roti are deeply comforting to me. During the winter months back home in India, my mother would make this dish for the whole family. I’ve tried making it myself, but I can never quite match the taste my mum creates. It’s not just about the ingredients – it’s the care and tradition behind it. The dish brings back memories of family meals, sitting together around the table, and those moments of warmth and connection.Do you have any tips for our readers attempting to recreate this dish?
I’ve tried to make it myself but can never quite match the taste my mother creates, however, I would say – never compromise on the flavours and textures –  it’s all about balancing the right textures and letting the flavours develop. If you cut corners or rush through the process, you’ll lose the essence of the dish. Patience and attention to detail are key!

Who are some of your chef heroes?
Some of my chef heroes include chef Raymond Blanc, whose passion for fresh, seasonal ingredients and his approach to French cuisine has always inspired me. Another hero of mine is Pierre Koffman, whose deep-rooted knowledge of French cooking, particularly his mastery of classic techniques. Gordon Ramsay is someone I’ve always respected, and of course, the late chef Pankaj Mehra, who was my mentor at the Oberoi Hotel in India, holds a special place in my heart. He was a remarkable chef with an incredible understanding of Indian flavours and culinary techniques. His guidance and wisdom shaped much of my early career.

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