Chef’s Table: Joseph Denison Carey on hosting and his Chinatown hotspots

Having trained in Italy and spent time in prominent kitchens from Pidgin to The Waterhouse Project, Chef Joseph Denison Carey is no stranger to the East London food scene. Having founded the Bread and Butter Supperclub in 2018, he’s graced our screens on shows such as ITV’s popular This Morning, and is best known for his refined yet approachable cooking style. Bringing his dishes to Boundary London this summer, until the end of September, Joseph’s menu will focus on abundant Italian-leaning comfort food, designed to “bridg[e] the gap between the occasion of eating out and the comfort of eating at home. There is a place for challenging cuisine, but it’s not here”.

In the latest installment of our Chef’s Table series, we caught up with Joseph to hear more about the residency, his inspirations, discover some hosting tips, and hear about his own current comfort foods.

You’re taking over the kitchens at Boundary this summer. What can we expect from your residency?
The menu is heavily rooted in Italian food, with items like polpette, tagliatelle and tiramisu, but stylistically it is the culmination of all my experiences in kitchens over the years. It differs from the supper club mainly in the way it is served. Individual plates, opposed to large sharing plates, allow for a greater focus on the smaller details of each dish.

I want the guests to be relaxed, comfortable & satisfied. I want them to know that if they come to Boundary they’ll leave having enjoyed their evening.

You’ve always said your cooking is about comfort, and influenced by moments with loved ones. Can you tell us more about it?
I think that growing up as an only child of a single parent made me really appreciate the times when our whole family, or large groups of friends, would get together. I was usually one of the quieter ones around the table but would love watching all the laughing and joking and chatting that would ensue. Food made all of that happen. It was the thing that brought us together. I think that has had a huge influence on my style of cooking. I want it to feel familial.The East London food scene has an exciting reputation, how do you feel being a part of that?
The truth is that the food scene in East London is so diverse… amazing restaurants and menus exist in their own right. It’s a privilege and great challenge to be amongst them.

When you’re winding down, do you have a go-to comfort food?
Anything in a broth, whether it be a chicken noodle soup, a ramen or an udon, I find that type of meal so warming. A broth can be packed with so much flavour too. Exactly what I want to eat when winding down.

Do you have any special memories associated with this dish?
Not a memory, but the idea that a bowl of ramen, for example, takes a long time to make. When eating a dish like that I can’t help but feel as though a lot of love has been put in because a lot of time has been put in. I rarely make stuff like that at home, so it always feels like a treat when I have one.

And after a long day of work, what do you make for yourself?
It has to be something quick. The truth is that if I spend the whole day cooking at work I want to spend as little time as possible doing it at home, I think 13 hours of cooking a day is plenty. Dan Dan noodles are very quick to make and also delicious.You’ve already had an impressive career, working in kitchens from one Michelin-starred Ristorante Gellius in Italy, to London hotspots The Water House Project, Pidgin and Caravel. What have you taken from these experiences?
Every kitchen and chef teaches you something new. If I had to pick one outstanding thing from each kitchen… Gellius in Italy ignited my passion and showed me things I’d never seen before; Gabriel Waterhouse showed me the importance of attention to detail and how to refine my cooking; Pidgin improved me as a chef, showing me how to work quickly and cleanly; Caravel instilled a confidence in me that I didn’t have before. With really stripped back cooking techniques it taught me a mastery of the basics that I didn’t have before.

Every new person and experience teaches us something new. We are a culmination of all of those moments.

What makes a meal exceptional for you?
There is no one thing, rather a combination of a lot of things. The food, the service, the ambiance and the people you share that moment with. There are a lot of different ways to have a great meal.

Where do you like to eat on your days off? Do you have any recommendations for us?
I love Chinatown. Gold Mine, Dumplings Legend & Four Seasons are some favourites of mine.

You’re known for your love of hosting. What’s the one piece of advice you’d give our readers?
Think about what it is that you’d like to experience and replicate that for your guests. It will make your hosting unique to you.