Review: Roka Mayfair serves up a refined Japanese delight

As I walk through the streets of Mayfair, I realise we couldn’t have picked a better day to be trying some incredible Japanese food at Roka London. It is one of those rare days in London where the temperature is just right – not hot enough that you’re a sweaty mess, but cool enough that it feels pleasant – and it is still daylight past 7pm. 

Roka specialises in robatayaki cuisine, which is a form of Japanese cuisine which is similar to a barbeque and involves cooking over hot charcoal. And upon entering the restaurant, you are immediately met with a relaxed yet elegant ambience – with a host of chefs working their magic on the open flames in the middle of the restaurant, where there is also a counter dining arrangement should anyone want to be right in front of the action

Once we’re situated at our table, we decide to indulge in some of the restaurant’s seasonal cocktails. I opt for the sakura 75 with roku gin, cherry blossom, koji yuzu sake and champagne, which is a great complement to the spring sunshine, while my cousin opts for the non-alcoholic ginger ninja, which contains lychee, mint and lime ginger beer.The evening starts with a round of spicy edamame, chicken karaage and an iceberg lettuce salad – and each dish is even better than the last. The spiced edamame made for the perfect snack while the iceberg lettuce had just the right amount of char and smokiness.

Next we try the crispy, melt-in-your-mouth prawn tempura with spicy yuzu dressing, which is a hit with both my cousin and I. We also try some of Roka Mayfair’s extensive sushi selection, including the crab maki roll, which was absolutely delicious.

However, the highlight of the evening for me was the black cod marinated in yuzu miso. The cod completely melts in your mouth the instant you take a bite, and the miso added just the perfect level of umami to an already incredible dish. Black cod with miso is a pretty standard dish at most Japanese establishments, but the one at Roka was truly elevated with the added smokiness.

We enjoyed all of this with a side of tenderstem broccoli and fried rice, both of which were great accompaniments to an already tasty meal.For dessert, I sampled some of the delicious miso crème brûlée with pistachio icecream. I was a bit skeptical about a miso based crème brûlée, but I was pleasantly surprised by the flavour and how it didn’t overpower the dish at all. My cousin opted for the sticky toffee pudding with miso caramel sweet potato ice cream, which was also very unique yet just as incredible.

The energy at Roka is truly infectious. Everywhere you look, there are people enjoying a hearty meal, the chefs are working away at the robata grill and there is a buzz in the air that follows even as you walk out after a great meal. It is hard to describe the atmosphere you’re in when you visit Roka, but as you watch the chefs work their magic on the open flames right in front of you, something comes truly alive. 

And it is that infectious energy (and the delicious food) that keeps you coming back for more – I know I certainly will. 

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