Review: Nessa puts the charm back in Soho

If you’ve ever been to Soho, you know this is one area of London where you’re never short of dining options. So it is truly a feat when a restaurant pleasantly charms you and stands out from the crowd. Nessa, Soho is that restaurant. Located in the corner of Brewer, Warwick and Glasshouse Street, this restaurant is a vibrant destination filled with British charm and creativity.

Nessa is inspired by Soho’s Bohemian spirit, and that is evident as soon as you enter the restaurant. Inside, you’re met with a modern yet boho-chic aesthetic, a cosy yet stylish dining room that invites you to stay just a little longer than you intended to, and art that pays tribute to painters like Vanessa Bell and other creatives of the Bohemian movement.

My visit to Nessa was with a small, informal group, which I think was the best way to experience this explosion of culture in the heart of London. We settled into our corner booth with a full view of the kitchen and bar area, watching bartenders and chefs cook up a storm in the open setting.Nessa’s menu is shaped by the seasons and cooked over flames. Meanwhile, the bar is a Soho destination for classic drinks, inventive cocktails and creative gatherings of art and music. There is a horseshoe bar on one side, plus plentiful lounge seating, accompanied by a combination of bespoke and mid-century modern vintage furniture, art and a mix of textural fabrics. Leading through to the dining room, there is cosy banquette seating and tables, which set the scene for intimate and relaxed dining.

Drawing on both British influences and executive chef Tom Cenci’s passion for global flavours, this restaurant is an expression of elegant yet playful, inventive cuisine. 

We decided to start off our night with some of Nessa’s signature and seasonal cocktails. “The Lost Goodbye”, which is the bar’s take on an elevated aperol spritz – featuring The Lost Explorer, aperol, apricot and pineapple – was an instant favourite among us all. Meanwhile “Pom and Circumstance” – a vodka based drink with hot honey, coconut blossom and pomegranate – added a spicy zing that was totally unexpected, yet wholeheartedly welcome. We also sampled some of the many beers, spritz cocktails and wines on offer.As per our incredibly attentive hostess’s recommendation, we decided to pair our drinks with some of the stand-out small plates served at Nessa. We kicked things off with the delectable cheese and onion croquettes with Montgomery cheddar and grape mustard mayo as well as some bread with dreamy, melted cultured butter to share. This was then followed by some coal roasted cabbage with chilli, shallots and blue cheese dressing as well as a spiced bag of chillies, potatoes and peppers.

The highlight of our meal, however, was the celeriac carbonara. Made with pancetta, confit egg, truffle and Spenwood cheese, this dish was so delicious that the fact that we were eating celeriac and not actual spaghetti pasta didn’t even cross our minds. All through our meal, the drinks kept flowing, with the ever-attentive staff ensuring we had a pleasant time from start to finish.

As the night progressed, the atmosphere in the restaurant changed from quiet and intimate to bustling and full of life. Ambient music scored the warm evening, the kitchen lit with open fire and mouthwatering recipes, and the dimmed lights glinting off the decor and art all around us transporting us right into the Bohemian era this restaurant was inspired by to begin with. It is not an exaggeration to say that Nessa is easily one of the most charming restaurants in Soho. Every single element of this eatery is designed to bring you the chaotic liveliness that is so akin to this London borough.

And while our menu contained none of the festive flair that is soon to sweep the nation, Nessa is bringing the golden age glamour of the 70s to its Christmas offerings. Think the Rolling Stones on the stereo, slow-cooked turkey on your plate and a retro-chic aesthetic throughout.

Whether you’re here for a pre-theatre tipple or a long overdue catch up with your friends, Nessa will receive you with open arms, and give you a night worth remembering. It certainly gave me one I’d want to return to all over again.

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