This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.
Review: Indonesian fine dining at its best at Toba London
By Shivani Dubey | 21 January 2025 | Food & Drink
For those looking to get initiated into the world of Indonesian fine dining, it doesn’t get any better than Toba in London’s St James’s Market
When it comes to Asian cuisine, we don’t talk enough about Indonesia. This group of islands situated in southeast Asia is home to some of the most exciting gastronomical novelties the world has to offer. To find it in London, you need to go no further than Toba, an Indonesian fine dining restaurant by Pino Edward Sinaga, that serves food inspired by his late mother. Named after his mother’s hometown, Toba is a haven for authentic Indonesian cuisine elevated to a level of exceptional fine dining.
Dining at Toba is wildly different from eating at Pino’s Warung, chef Pino’s extremely popular street food stall in Camden Market. Located in the heart of St James’s, here, Pino is serving Indonesian culinary excellence with the warmth of Asian hospitality, and dishes so comforting that they leave you wanting more. As someone who has never really experienced Indonesian cuisine, I was really looking forward to diving into the zing and the zest of the 17,000 islands that make up the country.
We started with the Lycheetini, a speciality gin-based martini with lychee liquor and a lychee fruit served on top. It was the perfect drink to kick off the flavour bombs we were about to experience in the ensuing dishes. Just the right amount of sweet, tropical and refreshing, topped off with the alcohol soaked lychee.
Related: Sachi – Journey to Kyoto at this kappo-style restaurant and rooftop bar
A SLICE OF HOMELY HOSPITALITY
We then moved on to some small plates of Indonesian classics like chicken satay, tempe mendoan (deep fried fritters) and seabream soaked in limes — all of which, according to my friend who is a native of Indonesia, felt like a “slice of home”. From here, we moved on to my personal favourite: the nasi goreng — a sea food fried rice packed with so much flavour, you keep coming back for more. I have had nasi goreng at a handful of other restaurants, but nothing came close to the offering at Toba. Warm, spicy fried rice in a bed of prawns, calamari and more — a winning combination.
Another highlight was the ikan arsik, Toba’s signature cod fillet cooked with torch ginger and andaliman (an Indonesian pepper). This is chef Pino’s late mother’s recipe, and you can immediately feel the love and comfort as soon as you take a bite into this zesty dish. The fish melts in your mouth and is a perfect milder complement to the crispy smashed fried chicken we ordered — which was another favourite of mine. Fair warning to those who wish to try, however, as the chicken is packed with a good amount of spice. In my opinion, it is definitely worth ordering.
We also tried the beef rendang (slow cooked beef in spiced coconut) with a side of gado-gado, a Jakarta-style vegetable salad served with rice cakes, tofu, tempeh, and salted egg topped with crackers. The latter is meant to be mixed in with the restaurant’s homemade peanut sauce, and made for a great accompaniment to our meal.
Related: Low and No – Mighty mocktails for Dry January
A FITTING TRIBUTE
For the uninitiated, the world of Indonesian cuisine can be daunting. From the spice filled eggs and the zing of lemon and ginger to the many fritters and the complexly flavoured sambals, there is so much gastronomy to enjoy. But there is truly no better restaurant in London to get you started on this journey than Toba.
Even if you aren’t a native Indonesian, the feeling of home is very apparent at Toba. Whether it is in the form of warm and comforting food, the chic interiors or the incredibly kind chef and staff, you truly feel like you are a revered guest in an Indonesian home. This is no surprise, given that all the recipes have been passed down from the chef’s late mother. As far as motherly tributes go, it’ll be hard for anyone to top this one.
Toba has achieved the perfect balance between elegance and homely comfort, with recipes and dishes that feel like a warm hug from your loved ones. A love for food, hospitality and country — all shine through in each dish served at this restaurant. And now that I have had a taste, I will certainly be coming back for more.