Review: Benares Mayfair is London’s definitive Indian fine dining

Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Benares has been situated on Berkeley Square in London for 21 years. In that time, it has defined — and redefined — what it means to perfect Indian fine dining for a British and international audience. Chef Sameer Taneja secured the restaurant’s Michelin star in 2021, and has kept the accolade each year since, thanks to his focus on “simple, clean and precise cooking” that combines local British ingredients, classic French technique, and Indian flavours. 

Entering Benares is to leave the buzz of London behind. Its low-lit, slightly moody ambience begins at the entranceway, before rising the staircase to a comfortable lounge bar — perfect for a pre-dinner cocktail or two — and serene water feature. Dotted around the bar are three of the restaurant’s private dining rooms, including the wine cellar – where small parties or couples can experience a secluded meal among the impressive collection – and the chef’s table, which overlooks Chef Sameer and his brigade. 

The main dining room offers elevated simplicity: dark walls and mirrors, low lighting provided by small lamps on each table. It is not quite a feast for the senses, but it soon becomes clear that this style is designed to let the food do the talking.In the past, Indian dining in the UK was all too often relegated to takeaways and curry houses but, thanks to a handful of upscale restaurants like Benares leading the way to showcase the delicious diversity of Indian cuisine, London’s restaurant scene has become far more willing to embrace and deliver authentic and even experimental dishes to appease our growing appetite for new flavours. Chef Sameer’s eight-course tasting menu is designed to do just that: showcase flavours from around India and delight the tastebuds at every turn.

We begin in Mumbai with classic street snacks: pakora pops, pani poori and a chicken manchow soup, paired with a sparkling wine and elderflower cocktail (my colleague, a native of Mumbai and street-food aficionado, gave these her immediate seal of approval). 

From here, Chef Sameer put the spotlight on fresh fish as we enjoyed a malaber scallop – perfectly tender and flavoured with delicate coconut curry — served in its shell, followed by a stunning tawa halibut with a Portsmouth clam moilee (a delectable Goan curry with coconut milk). A sparkling tea of fennel, lemon and thyme cleared the palate perfectly; the flavour recalling hotel arrivals in glamorous destinations and refreshments designed to bring the weary traveller back to life. After this, our sommelier Eduard Ciubotaru recommended a 2021 Dolceto D’Alba from Cascina Vano — an Italian red full of fresh fruits, known for complimenting pasta and meat dishes and, as we found, absolutely versatile when paired with Asian spices and British meats. 

The Hiran Boti Tikka that kicked off the second half of our experience was a perfectly cooked venison kebab cooked in charcoal and layered with curry and coriander muntjac, garlic yoghurt and chilli chutney. Food is often considered the key to unlocking our favourite memories, and this dish transported me to Rajasthan’s rooftops thanks to its freshness and delightful kick of spiced coriander. After, a lamb chop pulao brought a warming, beautifully seasoned curry dish with all the traditional trimmings: pilau rice, black dhal, freshly baked roti bread, yoghurt and chutney. Thanks to Chef Sameer’s balanced flavours and careful portions, we were able to clear our plates comfortably, utterly satisfied, but still with room for dessert. This came in the form of a traditional rasmalai — an East Indian delicacy made with curdled milk, sugar, nuts, saffron and cardamoms. Incidentally, it was another of my colleague’s childhood favourites, and so successfully faced down a tough critic. Served with strawberries as a nod to British sensibility – and a subtle sign, perhaps, that we were coming to the end of our tour around India’s favourite dishes – this was the perfect treat with which to finish the meal. 

At Benares, the food is what truly does the talking. The understated ambience – that is perhaps difficult to define, catering as it does for couples, business meetings, old friends and eager gastronomes – belies the bursts of flavour in every bite. Every morsel is painstakingly prepared, portioned and presented to delight the senses and – in the tasting menu in particular – work flawlessly as a whole experience. While the friendly staff are, perhaps, slightly over-attentive as we are offered coffee and petit fours to finish the experience, Benares remains one of Mayfair’s crowning jewels, as Chef Sameer continues to redefine Indian – and British – cuisine.

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