Review: Alpine living at Grace La Margna, the first new St Moritz hotel in 50 years

Despite its location in the far corner of Switzerland, just a stone’s throw from the Italian border, the popular tourist hotspot of St Moritz has more in common with Britain than you might think — or so the story goes. But change is afoot in the chocolate-box Alpine town, ushered in by the arrival of the newly transformed Hotel Grace La Margna — the first new hotel to open in the town for half a century. Ruffling the well-established and well-groomed feathers of the St Moritz hotel scene, the Grace is a breath of fresh mountain air, both in what it offers and how it presents itself.

According to local legend in the Engadin region, a hotelier named Johannes Badrutt made a bold wager with some of his English guests staying in St Moritz over the summer of 1864. Confident that the sun would shine in St Moritz whatever the time of year, he promised his guests that even if they returned in the depths of winter, they would still be able to sit and enjoy the sunshine on his terrace in nothing more than their shirtsleeves. If not, he’d happily foot the bill for their travel costs, which would not have been unsubstantial 160 years ago. Holding him to his word, the guest duly reported back at Christmas time, ready for the promised winter sun and, by Easter, they allegedly returned home relaxed and, more importantly, tanned. From that moment, winter tourism in the Alps was born and since then, the pocket-sized tourist hotspot of St Moritz has gone on to host the Winter Olympics twice, as well as being home to the Cresta Run, the White Turf horse race and the ICE car concours, both hosted on the area’s frozen lake in winter.

As the birthplace of Swiss Alpine tourism, it’s no surprise to find St Moritz isn’t short of hotels steeped in history, such as the imperious, old-school charm of the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Perched on the hillside, overlooking the lake, the hotel has come to symbolise much of what St Moritz has become known for when it comes to hotels – establishments that pride themselves on the comfortable, old-fashioned, cigar smoke filled bars, pristine white tablecloth restaurants and grand, ornately decorated rooms.

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From the outside, Grace La Margna, aka the new kid on the block is difficult to tell apart from the many traditional Swiss buildings, something for which Divercity Architects, the London-based group tasked with reimagining it, would be particularly proud. First envisioned in 1906 by Swiss architect Nicolaus Hartmann, much of the Grace La Margna has been preserved as a stunning symbol of Engadin art nouveau architecture, while its new, additional wing is a nod to modernity.

Designed to be different, the two sides of the hotel offer contrasting experiences on the inside, too. The rooms in the original building channel 20th-century charm, while the more modern wing is a temple to quiet luxury, with its elegant Scandinavian interiors and stainless-steel-clad spa down below. Surprisingly, the contrast works well, with guests able to choose between a modern or more traditional experience.

Given its location overlooking the lake and just a five-minute walk from the train station, the Grace is well positioned for access as well as spectacular views. Regardless of the vista from your bedroom window, all guests get to experience the view out of the floor-to-ceiling windows from the main restaurant, aptly named The View. 

Related: Inside the six star luxury cruise ship offering a stop in every European portPull yourself away from the glass for a split second and it’s possible to soak up some of the food and drink on offer. Fronted by Italian executive chef, Andrea Bonini, the menu in The View (inset above) is largely Mediterranean, with an excellent spread of fish, pasta and pizza, including the signature Grace pizza, which blends creamy burrata with cherry tomatoes and raw red prawns. It’s a different take on a pizza, for sure, but in true Grace style, it works brilliantly.

Given the towering mountains that loom large outside, it’s impossible to resist getting out and about in St Moritz. The iron-rich mineral springs that cascade down the mountainsides like veins continue to pull in tourists looking to hike the peaks around St Moritz in summer, while there’s plenty on offer during the winter – as you’d expect from a resort at more than 1,800m above sea level.

The Grace’s front-facing concierge has endless recommendations of what you can do in the local area. From stunning trail runs and mountain biking routes over the peaks in the summer, to a mid-ski found at the top of Muottas Muragl, which can be accessed by a funicular straight out of a Wes Anderson movie set.For those looking to take things a little slower, St Moritz high street is awash with designer labels, fast cars, restaurants and bars, reflecting the well-heeled clientele that flock to the mountain resort all year round. It’s a world apart from the peace and quiet that can be sought in the boundless natural beauty surrounding it but it’s all part of the charming glitz and glamour that St Moritz has become known for.

As Johannes Badrutt boasted back in 1864, there are very few places quite like St Moritz for year-round sunshine. When it comes to charming, picture-book mountain escapes, St Moritz is hard to top and, before now, there wasn’t much choice when it came to the type and style of overnight accommodation on offer. For those looking for a deeply traditional stay, there’s still plenty on offer but, with the Grace open all year round and offering the best of both worlds, it’s difficult to find an excuse to overlook the mountain town’s freshest face.

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