Review: Exquisite Nikkei cuisine at Piraña, a truly box office venue

With a pulsating atmosphere, stunning interior and a sensational Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu, Piraña has already established itself on the Mayfair dining scene thanks to its executive chef Mark Morrans (formerly of Nobu and MNKY HSE fame).

On sight alone, this is no ordinary establishment. Once inside, guests are immediately immersed in a mesmerising space spanning two expansive rooms and a private dining area towards the rear. The detailing throughout the interior is truly unique, with vast high ceilings, walls decked out in shades of blue, mind-boggling curved ceilings with textured walls, and subtle lighting that enhances every nook and cranny of the space. The real star of the show is the monstrously huge interior wall with its volcanic rock appearance. Everything is deliberate and done with purpose, down to the live piranha fish bobbing around in a huge tank that separates the two restrooms.

We arrive at 7pm to find, in no time at all, a nice buzz building as evening diners take their tables, the backdrop of soft house music at the perfect level. Our arrival is met with a glass of champagne accompanied by a bowl of ultra-thin and crispy plantain chips with spicy salsa. This welcome snack, so simple yet bursting with flavour, is a perfect indication of the sharing dishes and small plates that start our experience.Our first appetiser of grilled sake edamame beans with lemon and Maldon salt grabs the attention as we sample a selection of superb cocktails (a Lady and Blue Sour), before diving into a trio of small plates: seabream ceviche with truffle leche de tigre and puffed black rice; dragon rolls of tempura prawn, unagi and avocado; and tuna tataki and jalapeno with shiso salsa. Not just delicious but beautifully presented, these dishes take us on a tour of the fusion cuisine and leave us crying out for what’s still to come.

The next batch of dishes continue the delightful exploration of Peru’s most famous fusion. Rock shrimp tempura with spicy mayo, lime and crunchy corn, and a portion of Kushiyaki teriyaki beef skewers are utterly faultless – accompanied by more exquisite cocktails (this time a Spice Fire to offset the subtle warmth of the dishes).As we wait for our next courses, the evening’s DJ takes his place to lead the energy of the restaurant like a master conductor. Restaurant staff join the Peru-inspired musical entertainment, providing a real sense of fun and togetherness within the venue. The music is loud but the venue’s acoustic still allow guests to enjoy intimate conversation – exposing more of the skill and thought gone into the venue’s details.

Now suitably energised by the musical uplift, we are met with the most incredible round of dishes. The grilled black cod, with caramelised miso and pickled myoga, is nothing short of remarkable – the fish is almost translucent and melts away in the mouth.

Accompanying the cod are delicate strips of Japanese wagyu sirloin (A5) – as expected, the meat buttery, sweet and succulent. This is accompanied by a portion of nasu dengaku –grilled aubergine, miso, pomegranate and burrella – truly next level stuff.At this point we are fit to burst, but the temptation of what a dessert might look and taste like in the Japanese-Peruvian style is too much to deny. Dessert at any given venue can often be underwhelming and a bit of a filler, but not at Piraña. A classy white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry cremeux and fresh fruits, accompanied by a warm and homely matcha fondant with white chocolate and coconut sorbet, brings down the curtain on a truly wonderful experience that will live long in the memory.

There is something for everyone at Piraña. It’s decadent, thrilling, almost outrageous in parts, but always a magical attack on the senses that will not disappoint. With careful planning and consideration, this could be a mainstay of London’s immersive fine dining scene.

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