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London Stock: a hidden gem of rich flavour and indulgent dishes
By Michelle Johnson | 7 May 2022 | Food & Drink
A fine dining discovery tucked away in leafy Wandsworth
Who doesn’t love a hidden gem? For all we amateur gastronomes, it’s clear there’s nothing better than making a real discovery. And that is exactly what I got when I was invited to dine at South London restaurant London Stock on a sunny weekend.
The only reasons I can think of that this incredible Wandsworth restaurant isn’t already featured at the top of every Sunday lunch list are that, firstly, it was launched just before the pandemic lockdowns and, secondly, its discreet location, tucked away as it is in the new development of Ram Quarter. However, the renovated quarter consisting of the old Young’s brewery, new loft apartments and refined dining quarter will not be left unknown for long – already, the area has a cool, riverside vibe that perfectly echoes the changing face of the suburban borough.
With an extensive summer terrace looking onto the quarter, and modern interior décor that makes the most of period features (including the London Stock bricks the venue is named for), London Stock bridges the gap between city bar and it-restaurant.
Founded Assem Abdel Hady and Andres Bernal, the kitchen is led by head chef Sebastian Rast. Their combined experience includes stints at Cordon Bleu, HIDE Piccadilly and Schwitzer’s Hotel am Park – and it shows well in the chef’s emphasis on noticeably fresh local produce served up in truly decadent style for a mouth-watering Sunday roast.
We start with an amuse bouche and buttery bread rolls – served with flavoured butter and salt – and an obligatory glass of champagne. With tempting dishes like goats cheese and squash as well as a curry-carrot soup on the menu for Sunday starters, I worry my choice of chicken liver parfait with sourdough may be a bit vanilla, but the classic dish comes with a delicious twist of cherry-port wine jelly that utterly uplifts it.
With the starter such a huge success, staying classic with roast beef sirloin is a no-brainer for me – although the Sunday menu also includes pan-fried gilt-head bream or beef Wellington, as well as a vegetarian roast cauliflower that take inspiration from Asian classics.
This is a mighty roast: thin strips of melt-in-the-mouth sirloin coupled with seasonal vegetables, creamy spinach, Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes with a perfect crisp-fluffy ratio. The meal is finished with lashings of red wine gravy to make a truly indulgent roast.
Somehow, we manage to make room for dessert – a trio of sorbets and a chocolate fondant with salted caramel and orange peel.
London Stock somehow managed to provide truly excellent comfort food, but with a twist of fine quality and creative expertise that elevates even the humble roast into a fine dining experience. This is seriously indulgent food – as rich with cream and butter as it is with creativity and flavours. And it is a treat well worth seeking out.
With an eight-course tasting menu available in addition to this superbly extravagant Sunday roast, London Stock is not so much a restaurant to watch, as one to race to – before this absolute gem is well and truly discovered.