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The shape of Xú
By Judy Cogan | 14 February 2024 | Design, Lifestyle
With his cubism-inspired luxury label EDXÚ, Edward Xú has become one of the jewellery world’s most exciting rising stars. We find out what inspires the designer’s new generation of jewels
Read the full interview in our new issue here.
If you haven’t heard of award-winning jewellery designer Edward Xú before now, consider this your official introduction. The 34-year-old started his namesake London-based brand EDXÚ two years ago with a focus on handcrafted architectural and mindful pieces that are inspired by everything from cubist art to 90s computer games like Tetris and Snake.
The designer graduated from Central Saint Martins College in 2011 and trained with celebrated names including Solange Azagury-Partridge and Tateossian. After completing an MA in luxury brand management, Edward say it “felt natural to start my own brand combining my creativity and business vision. I love independence.” Now, each piece is handcrafted in the brand’s studio in London’s Hatton Garden, offering bespoke pieces as well as a ‘Reimagine’ service – a sustainable service that transforms existing or heirloom jewellery into new masterpieces.
He believes every piece he makes, be it a new collection, a reimagined bracelet or a bespoke ring made from scratch to mark a special occasion, has a hidden story.
Here, we speak to Edward to find out more about this upcoming designer and his vision.
Edward, what goes into reimagining an existing piece of jewellery?
We revisit a client’s old jewellery as a sustainable surface to repurpose. It might be old family heirlooms, an engagement ring or sentimental piece. It’s always something to celebrate. One client recently wanted a pair of cufflinks reimagined. They were actually costume jewellery; worthless in value, with no gems and I think a clay- or marble-based metal. That’s quite far removed from fine jewellery, but the client told me the cufflinks were his dad’s and held sentimental value. That is so special. I want to help our clients capture meaningful moments in a piece they can keep forever. The human side to jewellery really inspires me.
How does the bespoke process work?
A client might come in for a private consultation having seen something they like – be it on Instagram or a geometric painting at an exhibition, or some kind of architecture. We get all the key information from them, come up with a proposal and use 3D renderings to suggest gemstones or techniques. The client can change things at any point and we only start to make the piece when they’re 100% happy. On average, from the first consultation to the finished piece, it takes around three months. It’s an education every time. In the end the piece is usually completely different to their initial vision and ideas, but it’s my job to make sure it’s something they love.
What inspires your jewellery designs and new collections?
I find art, especially cubism styles and bright primary colours, incredibly inspiring. I love to work in an architectural way with sharp angles and a minimalist style. I like the idea that we live and work inside architecture and that jewellery lives on us. Exactly what inspires me changes all the time. It can be travel, an art exhibition, or retro games like Tetris or Snake. If I see something in the street, I capture it on my phone and put the photo in a folder to later revisit when I start designing a collection. Everyday life always throws up new inspirations. It’s always evolving, always changing.
Who do you have in mind when you design your collections?
All the pieces I make are designed to be gender neutral. I want to create jewellery that can be appreciated and worn by anyone, and can’t be identified as masculine or feminine. I wear every single piece in our collections. Our clients are female, male and nonbinary, and everyone buys pieces from all the collections. I just try to make beautiful pieces that people will love. Jewellery is for everyone: it’s not seasonal, it’s generational.