We put the new restaurants by founders of Tart London to the test

By Rebecca Hopkins | 29 Nov 2019 | Indulge

Celebrity favourite Wild by Tart emphasises refreshing meals using quality ingredients

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Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison – the exceptionally talented double act behind Tart London – first met while living in New York, bonding over over a mutual enthusiasm for nutritious, delicious food. From here their bespoke catering service was born, employed by the likes of Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Cara Delevingne, Gisele Bundchen and Eddie Redmayne. 

In 2016, they became food columnists for the Evening Standard and published a cookbook. Their recipes – invariably wholesome yet exciting; exotic yet accessible – fast became my go-to recipes, lovingly pinned to my fridge.

Upon hearing that the pair were opening a restaurant, Wild By Tart, I leapt at the opportunity to visit. Needless to say, I arrived with sky-high expectations, and thankfully the recipes I was lucky enough to taste were vibrant, unexpected, bold, and mouthwateringly tasty. The menu showcases seasonal, sustainably sourced ingredients served in creative, vibrant combinations inspired as much by British towns and local farms as the exotic ingredients of further afield. 

Our dishes - trout crudo, green tiger’s milk, mezcal, avocado salsa and crisped corn; charred hispi cabbage, broccoli, pickled lime dressing and spiced coconut chutney and a sourdough pizzetta topped with wild mushroom, spinach, taleggio and rosemary – arrived in a relaxed manner, allowing us to truly savour the variety of flavours (and ogle at their visually gorgeous composition) over a rather delightful bottle of Vinho Verde Rosé. To finish, we polished off a miso caramel skillet cookie with milk ice cream so delicious that, if it were the only thing on the menu, the crowds would still flock. >>

 

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Beyond the menu itself, other delightful surprises are in store for visitors to the restaurant. Firstly, its location, Eccleston Yards: a new, beautifully designed, pedestrian-only courtyard tucked behind Victoria Station. Secondly, the space itself: a 9,000 sq ft former power station and coal store, the defining feature of which is a well-preserved glass and metal arched roof structure dating back to the 19th century.

 Along with the restaurant, the building also houses a bar, deli and kiosk, events space, photography studio, and a small concept store at its entrance, temptingly offering a Tart-certified bold, design-forward ceramics and glassware collection.

On the evening I was there, both women were hard at work in the kitchen, taking regular breaks to personally come out into the dining room to meet their guests. A five-minute conversation with Lucy left me with no doubt that the humble dedication and passion I always sensed on those carefully crafted recipe pages pinned to my fridge door is at the very heart of their ever-growing venture. I won’t be taking them down any time soon.

 

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