Valentino launches dazzling new logo-focused collection

The Valentino Toile Iconographe campaign uses the Maison signature VLogo to striking effect.

In linguistics, the idea of semantic satiation is one in which a word is repeated so frequently and in such a short space of time that it begins to lose its original meaning, or takes on a whole different meaning, to those saying or hearing it.

Though a fairly common phenomenon in the world of language and speech, it is far less prevalent in the arena of fashion and design, and rarely harnessed in such an eye-catchingly artistic fashion as seen in the design of the new Valentino Toile Iconographe collection of Valentino Garavani designer tote bags.

But this idea of iconographic saturation is essentially the heart of the new campaign, which sees the Maison’s designs covered seam-to-seam in small block prints of its famed 'V' emblem (often colloquially referred to as the “VLogo”), a design which originally appeared on Valentino designs in the late 1960s.

Here, small repetitions of the design are tessellated like puzzle pieces wrapping around the entire design, creating intersecting shapes that appear and disappear depending on the viewer’s perspective. The collection features a multitude of stylish items covered in this striking design either in an energetic red and white or the more monochrome, sleek black and white. The collection, too, is based on the pret-à-porter range of Valentino Garavani accessories, which have become known throughout the industry for their multifaceted, multidimensional characteristics.

The resulting effect is nothing short of hypnotic. Rather than representing a mere emblem, the print becomes a visually dazzling spectacle that morphs with each viewing, similar to a magic eye painting. One look, you may see zigzags or houndstooth patterns; the next, you might see faux alligator-skin. Furthermore, these diagonal lines can also merge into one another, creating larger shapes covering vast swathes of the design.

According to the Maison, the Valentino Toile Iconographe campaign, which was masterfully shot by the critically acclaimed American fashion photographer Steven Meisel, uses "contemporary items", as we would expect from Valentino Garavani, but remains "inspired by the 1970s" in its aesthetics.

It says: "Valentino Toile Iconographe is born, the canvas is iconographic: the image is everything. The logo becomes everything. Obsessive and exaggerated, both liberating and unique. Original and elegant indelible sign of our times and of our contradictions – actions."

The collection of Valentino Garavani women’s designer tote bags, clothing and accessories such as hats, was unveiled as part of Unboxing Valentino Spring/Summer 2023 runway show, and continues Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli's unique ability to blend maximalism and minimalism in the same piece. This is a statement style that has been present in much of the brand’s works since Piccioli’s ascension to the brand's helm in 2008.

However, at the same time, the new collection embraces the current trend found in high fashion that is being dubbed "logomania", where a Maison’s house emblem is at the forefront of the design, becoming more than just a logo; it is now and forevermore an intrinsic part of the fashion itself.

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