Patagonian adventuring at Rio Palena Lodge

The water is a more vibrant shade of turquoise than I’ve ever seen; so clear that each pebble on the riverbed below seems magnified. The surrounding forest is such a bright shade of green I can almost taste it, while towering above us stands the Three Nuns Mountain, part of the impossibly grand and ever-imposing Andean Mountain range. We’re in an area referred to by the locals as ‘the landscape painted by God’, and the name seems an apt one. However, my time for admiring the scenery (stunning though it may be) is limited. I’m on a river called the Futaleufú (from the indigenous Mapuche word meaning ‘big river’ – once again very well named) with a paddle in my hand and a few grade-five rapids quickly approaching. 

The Futa, as she’s affectionately known to watersport enthusiasts all over the globe, is widely regarded as one of the top three kayaking rivers in the world, and for the next few hours we are swooshed, buffeted, blasted and sprayed through a web of rapids – expertly navigated by our guide Mauricio the whole way. Whooping and hollering, we emerge victorious from the last rapid. This is the Chilean lake region at its adventurous best, and it’s nigh on impossible not to have fun. Apart from white water rafting and kayaking, fly fishers' eyes light up simply at the mention of Patagonia, while these unexplored mountains are on every heli-skiier’s bucket list. Add in hiking, horse riding and cycling and there’s fun to be had whatever the season. 

Our base for this adventure of a lifetime is the exquisite Rio Palena Lodge, an ultra-luxurious retreat that somehow manages to feel like home. Gut renovated for its November 2019 opening, it’s an intimate and secluded hideaway, its elegant wooden design perfectly blending into its natural surroundings. The seven ensuite bedrooms (a mix of kings and queens, with optional twins) are spacious, scenic and luxurious, all offering stunning views over the river itself.

Meanwhile the locally inspired meals are simply delicious, and they’re either enjoyed in front of a roaring stone fireplace or out on the porch watching the birds darting over the peaceful Palena River. The wood fired hot tubs and sauna are a favourite evening activity, and the well-stocked bar and pool table were also put to good use during our stay.

Tellingly, the lodge is run by Eleven Experience, and it really is the experience – rather than the luxurious setting – that is the main focus. The guides are incredibly friendly, knowledgeable and welcoming, and everyone goes out of their way to make each guest’s stay memorable. Our group was keen to experience everything Patagonia had to offer, and it was all systems go to make this happen. One morning was spent hiking through virgin forest to a spectacular waterfall named El Tronador, our guide Dom passionately pointing out all the flora and fauna we came across. Another morning was spent heli-alpine-hiking: Aldo (the on-staff helicopter pilot) dropped us way up in the mountains, and we spent the next few hours scrambling, bouldering and climbing to the top of the Los Condores, named after the giant Condor birds native to the area. The views seemed to stretch to infinite horizons, and there can’t be many places in the world better to enjoy a picnic lunch from.

One of the afternoons was spent gently kayaking down the Palena River, bathed in sunshine and without a care in the world. And keeping the good times going, bartender Vicente was waiting at the end with a makeshift bar set up on the river’s edge, complete with a selection of fine local Pisco Sours freshly prepared. Another afternoon was spent fly fishing, and it was a lot more adrenaline filled than we had expected. The guides are incredibly passionate and knowledgeable about the brown and rainbow trout that frequent these many lakes and rivers, and just about every cast (despite my novice technique) seemed to result in a strike. After an exhilarating afternoon that simply flew by, we had to be reluctantly steered back to the lodge in the fading light. 

One of the final evenings was spent under the starry night sky enjoying an unforgettable Chilean asado (an extreme version of a barbeque). With everyone well-nourished from the feast of meat and vegetables deliciously cooked over the fire, the musicians soon had everyone dancing and kept the party going well into the night. It was just one of many special memories from our time at Rio Palena Lodge, and one of the many reasons I look forward to returning soon (those playfully elusive trout are another).