The best watches from the 2024 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

On Wednesday, 13 November, the world of horology celebrated watchmaking excellence at the 2024 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards ceremony — known as the Oscars of watchmaking — which was hosted by French actress Carole Bouquet.

21 winners were chosen by a jury headed by Nick Foulkes, who is an international authority in the field of horology, and is the author of Patek Philippe: the Authorised Biography. 

The most significant distinction for best in show — the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix — went to IWC Schaffhausen for the Portugieser Eternal Calendar watch. Other brands who nabbed prizes include Berneron, Bernhard Lederer, Bovet 1822, Chopard, Daniel Roth, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie, Kudoke, Laurent Ferrier, Massena Lab, Ming, Otsuka Lotec, Piaget, Rémy Cools, Van Cleef & Arpels and Voutilainen.

The Special Jury Prize, which rewards a key figure or institution in the watchmaking world, was attributed this year to artisanal watch casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. 

Here, we look at some of the most significant timepieces from the 2024 GPHG awards.

Related: The Tempus Christmas gift guide 2024: Watches & JewelleryAiguille d’Or Grand Prix: IWC Schaffhausen, Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Nabbing the top prize for best in show, IWC Scaffhausen’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar watch was awarded the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix. This is the brand’s first secular perpetual calendar, and thanks to their newly engineered 400-year gear, will calculate leap years correctly until at least the year 3999. Widely regarded as one of the most advanced calendar watches in recent years — with a moon phase accuracy of 45 million years — the jury awarded this watch for its sheer mastery in astronomical precision. Eco-innovation Prize: Chopard, L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

The eco-innovation prize, which is awarded in a discretionary capacity to the timepiece that features a significant development in sustainability, and this year, it was awarded to Chopard for its L.U.C Qualité Fleurier. This is the first watch to be awarded this label since Chopard became the sole custodian of the Fleurier Quality Foundation in 2022. The watch is crafted in lucent steel – Chopard’s alloy featuring exclusive properties which is produced with a recycling rate of at least 80%. Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen, KV20i Reversed

The Men’s Watch prize this year went to Voutilainen for its KV20i Reversed watch. Pushing the boundaries of horology, the watch is equipped with an in-house calibre featuring a unique “back-to-front” construction. The movement has been reversed, allowing the wearer the opportunity to admire every detail of the movement while reading time. A blue dial surrounds the movement, completing the look.Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard, Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch

Apart from winning the eco-innovation prize, Chopard also won the Jewellery Watch prize for its Laguna High-Jewellery Secret watch. Concealed within the mysterious and protective cocoon of a seashell, this dazzling cuff watch showcases a pearl reflecting a sapphire palette surrounding and sculpting the captivating dial. Taking over 1,000 hours of fine workmanship, creating this watch involves delicately entwining ethical gold and titanium. The watch features an ethical 18-carat rose and white gold and titanium set with pink, violet and pastel blue sapphires, topaz, a natural pearl, emeralds, diamonds and purple Demantoid and Mandarin garnets.Ladies’ Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Jour Nuit

This year, the Ladies’ Watch prize went to Van Cleef & Arpels for its Lady Jour Nuit watch. This is a reinvention of the watch first introduced in 2008, with a new model 33-mm in diameter that required three years of development. The diamond-paved moon and stars perpetually pursue the sun, embellished with guilloché yellow gold. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc, the dial revolves gradually, replicating the magic of a starry night. A sapphire crystal covers the rear of the case and the oscillating weight, adorned with a polished star-studded sky.Audacity Prize: Berneron, Mirage Sienna

This year, the Audacity prize went to Bernon’s all gold Mirage Sienna watch. This prize rewards creative audacity — watches featuring a non-conformist, offbeat approach to watchmaking. The Mirage is the first shaped watch to draw its asymmetry from its calibre. Drawn to let the mechanics go freely, the movement escapes from the circle to then offer a combination of finesse and advanced performance. Its total absence of symmetry creates a harmony that is both imperfect and deliberate.

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