The height of taste: a gastronomic tour of Colorado

According to The United States Census Bureau, Colorado is the eighth largest state by area but only the 21st most population. Just six million people populate the state’s 104,000 square miles – the equivalent of two-thirds of London’s population in a space bigger than the entire UK. Still, what Colorado lacks in people, it makes up for in mountains (including the Rocky Mountains) and canyons, forests and deserts, plains and plateaus, as well as the confusingly-named Colorado National Monument – actually a National Park rather than, say, a monolith – containing pretty much all the above. In short, Colorado is beautiful, there’s space to breathe and, when you’ve had your fill of natural beauty, fresh air, hiking and other outdoor pursuits, there are some rather lovely urban locations (and amazing restaurants and bars) too.DENVER 

Denver is one of those oddly rare US cities that makes it easy to get from the airport to the city with a regular rail service to downtown and Union Station. The city itself is somewhat sprawling, so you might need a day or two to really find its heart but, as a city founded during the Gold Rush, it’s dotted with interesting history and intriguing neighbourhoods. It’s also the gateway to the Rockies and there’s a big clue to its mountainous location and surroundings in Denver’s nickname, “The Mile High City”. 

While The Denver Art Museum is a fine way to fill a few hours (particularly for anyone interested in Native American art), the city’s RiNo district – River North for those wondering at the name – is dotted with remarkable street art, funky shops (including the excellent Temper Chocolate and Confections) and a thriving bar and restaurant scene. The latter is obvious across the city; little wonder then that Denver recently (and perhaps belatedly) followed the likes of Aspen, Boulder and Vail to be recognised by the Michelin Guide, where The Wolf’s Tailor was awarded Two Stars, and a handful of others picked up one stars or recommendations. 

It’s very easy to eat well across the city. Fox & Hen, for example, provides elevated diner-style breakfasts, Vital Root delivers excellent plant-based dining and also supplies other restaurants, such as the excellent Spanish / Mediterranean tapas spot El Five, with vegetables and herbs grown in its own on-site hydroponic / shipping container farm. A special mention to for Tavernetta, who picked up a deserved Bib Gourmand for their terrific Italian food. There’s multiple quality accommodation to be found too, a fact also recognised by Michelin via their “Key” awards. Four Denver hotels hold one Key: Populus, the Clayton Hotel and Members Club, Four Seasons Denver and The Crawford Hotel.FORT COLLINS

From Denver, it’s a short and easy drive to Fort Collins, which proved to be one of the surprise packages of my tour. If you’re a fan of Bill Bryson’s The Lost Continent, you may recall it’s a quest to find the perfect small town and Fort Collins makes a very good claim to be exactly that. As the name suggests, it originated as a military outpost, in the 19th century, evolving into a great and vibrant college town (as well, apparently, as being the inspiration for Disneyland’s Main Street). 

As a result, it’s a very walkable, very pretty town and dotted with culinary gems. If you’re a beer drinker who’s visited the US, chances are you’ve sampled New Belgium Brewing Company’s excellent products: well, they originated here and, subsequently, have attracted another 20 or so breweries to the district. Food wise, I can heartily recommend Ginger and Baker, a great facility set in an old grain mill, that now includes a Market & Bakery, a Teaching Kitchen, a wine bar, a roof terrace and event spaces alongside a genuinely great café. 

For other suggestions, try the Old Town Food Tour which will whisk you around several of the town’s finest establishments, such as The Still Whiskey Steaks – which does what it says on the sign, serving pretty much everything but the moo, frankly – and The Hot Sauce Realm, a great little shop selling hot sauces (from independent makers across Colorado and the US) and vintage vinyl and clothing. The surrounding area – such as Legacy Park – is also very pretty, and a good way to explore is on electric bike. LOVELAND

In a similar vein is the charming Loveland, named after William A.H. Loveland, president of the Colorado Central Railroad and now perhaps best known for its art scene – Benson Sculpture Garden is a truly splendid thing to stroll around for a couple of hours – and for cleverly cashing in on its name. You can buy a padlock – and get it engraved with your sweetheart’s name – at the visitor centre and lock it to the nearby LOVE sign. You can also send your Valentine’s Card(s) via the same location (from anywhere in the world), and they’ll postmark it in suitably romantic fashion and remail it. There’s a great downtown too, with some fine independent bars and restaurants, a great burger at Henry’s Pub, and discounted margs and delightfully friendly and supportive karaoke at Wicked Tequila. VAIL

According to Coloradans, there’s a much-repeated comment about the state’s two famous ski cities. Vail is the fake city with real people… and Aspen is the real city with fake people. While I didn’t have that experience of Aspenites – they were, to a person, utterly charming – Vail does have a certain Epcot-esque feel to it. That’s probably mostly because it was founded relatively recently though – in 1962 – and has subsequently become synonymous with all things ski and Alpine-themed. That being said, the delightfully eccentric, Swiss chalet-esque Sonnenalp Hotel is comfortable and spacious, with an excellent pool, and should you be there, like I was, outside of ski season (or are too unfit, like I am, for ski season), there’s still much to occupy you. There’s some great shopping, Vail Brewery has a charming tap room and good beers, the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens are beautiful and, slightly eccentrically, the world’s highest botanical gardens, there’s fabulous hiking and stunning scenery, and the Michelin-recommended delights of Sweet Basil, for well-executed modern American cuisine. And then, a couple of hours away through spectacular surroundings, there’s Aspen. Founded as a silver mining town late in the 19th century, the last 150 years have seen the city grow and evolve into one of the world’s premier mountain destinations. Again, there’s much to do outside of ski season. 

There’s a very healthy brewing and distilling scene – hang out at the impressive Woody Creek Distillers long enough and you’ll probably run into Hollywood star William H Macy, who’s a partner and their “spokesdude” – and you should also detour to the J-Bar (not least as it’s beautiful) and try an Aspen Crud, effectively a boozy milkshake created to allow secretive drinking during Prohibition. The Mollie provides a very stylish, comfortable hotel experience – and some great food – and dinner at Michelin-recommended Element 47 is a must, if only to see and explore their astonishing, multi-award-winning wine program. Ask nicely and you may even get to explore the cellars and sign the wall or a shelf. You might even spot my initials somewhere among the reds… 

Read more travel stories with Tempus