Festive bubbles in Champagne

This Christmas, champagne fans have the chance to enjoy the best of the bubbles in the lead up to the festive season. Maison Belle Epoque, one of the oldest and best-known Champagne Houses in France, is offering a wonderful tasting menu which has been elegantly paired with a fine selection from their cellar. Available from 2nd to 22nd December, and for an exclusive audience of up to 14 guests per meal, the seven-course menu also includes the unique opportunity to taste an exciting new vintage, the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2014. 

The surroundings are memorable, to say the least. Based in the heart of the Champagne region and just 1.5 hours from Paris by train or car, Maison Belle Epoque was founded in 1811 and soon began producing fine champagnes. Set in the picturesque town of Epernay and surrounded by lush, rolling vineyards, the estate manor is liberally decorated with many beautiful pieces of furniture and works of art, as it proudly hosts the largest private collection of French art Nouveau in Europe.

In addition, Debeaulieu floral design studio have been invited to create a work of art to highlight the manor’s themes of nature, art and champagne. The result is a memorable installation of wine-coloured flowers, leaves and berries, which cleverly ‘hide’ when a human walks past but pop up when the coast is clear. It’s a thought-provoking piece that makes one consider our relationship with nature, and as it’s prominently displayed in the entrance halls it sets the scene nicely for the meal.  

Great things happen when great minds unite. Cellar Master Séverine Frerson, the eighth person to hold this illustrious position and the first woman, is responsible for choosing the Perrier-Jouët champagne pairings. Meanwhile the tasting menu has been designed by Pierre Gagnaire, 3* Michelin chef, and is expertly brought to life by the estate’s executive chef, Sébastien Morellon.

Pierre Gagnaire explained the theme of his menu, stating “With this menu for the holiday season, we are drawing on all the flavours of the season and iconic festive produce to fully reveal the richness of Perrier-Jouët champagnes’ floral nuances. Particular attention has been paid to the textures, so that the textures of the dishes are in harmony with those of the wines; a singular approach to tasting that I share with Séverine Frerson.”

The results are spectacular. French cooking is traditionally all about the nuanced flavours: rich, complex tastes and textures which never overpower or intimidate. This tasting menu is no exception, and it’s the clever combinations, each highlighting and accentuating the subtle flavours, which manage to steal the show. For example, the Erquy scallops and Thai grapefruit poached in unsalted turmeric butter with Félicia salad is not a combination I would ever dream up (after all, scallops and grapefruit don’t often grace the same plate) but it’s one that surprises and delights. The accompanying Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blancs de Blanc 2012 might be a mouthful to pronounce, but the taste is fresh, light and delicious. 

Likewise the pumpkin gnocchi starter, which is wonderfully accompanied by creamy onion sauce, parmigiano and white truffle. I could continue in this vein indefinitely, but as the meal consists of numerous appetisers, two starters, two main courses, cheese and desserts, it’s probably sufficient to conclude by saying it’s a meal that needs to be enjoyed in person to be fully appreciated. 

My general opinion on desserts is the more the better, and Chef Pierre Gagnaire certainly doesn’t disappoint. The triple combination of Pomegranate iced parfait with Gavotte biscuit, Pannacotta with white Alba truffle and Marsala syrup, and finally Marron glacé and deglazed caramel all magically hit the sweet spot. These are well paired with the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2013, a warm and delicate flavour with which to suitably conclude a memorable meal.

Whether as part of a weekend trip or a longer festive holiday, a meal at Maison Belle Epoque is an experience not to be missed. Congratulations to the team for raising the bar in festive fine dining.