Elegance and eccentricity combine at Bob Bob Cité

By Oli Ross | 5 August 2019 | Food & Drink

Bob Bob Ricard’s trendy City sister is a cut above its peers

* Upon entering Bob Bob Ricard’s new City-based establishment, Bob Bob Cité, you get pleasantly smacked in the face with an icy blast of new age Art Deco elegance

Upon entering Bob Bob Ricard's new City-based establishment, Bob Bob Cité, you get pleasantly smacked in the face with an icy blast of new age Art Deco elegance, a mix of garish acrylics and marble which somehow combine to create a veritable feast for the eyes.

Compared to the slightly more rustic chic Bob Bob Ricard in Soho, the brand's Cité restaurant edges towards a more Back to the Future diner vibe, while still providing the 'Press for Champagne’ button that we all come here for. The ambience is refreshing and the time spent on the décor is plain to see, prepare to be suitably impressed.

We are shown into the Blue Room which is low-lit and, again, reeks of oligarchic opulence. The walls are topped by an LED display linked to your Champers button and, when pressed, flashes from uniform blue to a very snazzy red around the room, illuminating your need for fizz in a wonderfully egocentric manner. Within moments, a well-spoken, waistcoat-adorned sommelier appears to provide expert advice. We opt for the Billecart Salmon Rosé, a worthy recommendation that I have had many times previously.

The menu is French haute cuisine with a Russian twist. To start, Russian Oscietra sturgeon caviar (of course) and the snails, entitled ‘Escargot en Persillade’. Both are superb, and sit perfectly together; the snails in particular are the closest I've found that match the slice of heaven served at The Savoy Grill. >>

* For the main we opt for the Beef Wellington for two, and it does not disappoint

As a between-course aperitif our sommelier recommends a shot of premium vodka, served at -18 degrees. It's a far cry from my rugby days; this is a gamer changer, smooth and beautifully served. For the main we opt for the Beef Wellington for two, and it does not disappoint. It’s easy to get this dish wrong, as many a celebrity chef has warned us, but the perfectly cooked and wonderfully pink beef is so soft the knife cuts through like it would a cheesecake. The pastry is light and crisp, and the truffle jus is rich and decadent but not overpowering. If I could have licked the plate clean I would have done.

With a dish that combines to create a party in your mouth (albeit more of a silent disco), I was left wanting more despite being served up a sizeable portion. Sides in the form of pomme Puree and les Grosses Frites a La Truffe (that's truffle chips, elsewhere) go down well as a companion.

To finish, we order Le Colonel, an intriguing dessert that I'm told is a staple of the house. This is lemon sorbet served with yet more vodka, one cooling the other and creating the perfect pousse-café to end our evening. Much praise to be lavished on this new addition to the Bob Bob family; all that is left to say is отлично сработано!