The best horological novelties from Watches and Wonders 2025

It is that time of the year again, when the world’s leading watchmakers and horological geniuses gather in Geneva for the largest horology trade show in the watch business: Watches and Wonders. It is here that brands from Cartier and TAG Heuer to Ulysse Nardin and Louis Moinet gather to showcase their brand new horological creations. Here, we round up some of the most exciting novelties from Watches and Wonders 2025.Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition

Opening the Watches and Wonders 2025 extravaganza is Gerald Charles with the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. The maison is marking its 25th anniversary with this watch, which is inspired by its founder Gérald Charles Genta. This watch is based on the Maestro GC39 and is inspired by the classic ‘montre à guichet’, or ‘window watch’ style. It features a stepped, fluid case shape, a radiant dial and contains the Gerald Charles Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours mechanical calibre. At 12 o’clock, the dial opens to reveal a 12-hour disc and a ‘jumping hours’ complication, whereby the disc jumps forward in one-hour increments every 60 minutes. The dial is crafted from three different components that combine to create a partially hidden Baroque-style, multi-ray star motif. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication – 45mm

Roger Dubuis is one of the most innovative watchmaking houses in the world, and each year, the maison presents something that is truly a step above the rest. This year is no different thanks to the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication 45mm which features a bioretrograde display — a Roger Dubuis signature. ​​The watch pays tribute to Roger Dubuis’s favourite complication and features a 100% in-house Grande Complication calibre that contains a semi-instantaneous perpetual calendar. It displays day, date, month and leap year, a minute repeater and an automatic flying tourbillon powered by a double micro rotor. It comes in a pink gold case and is limited to just eight pieces worldwide. TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph | F1

TAG Heuer is continuing its ongoing connection with motorsport and Formula 1 at Watches and Wonders 2025 with the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1. Limited to just 10 pieces, the watch features the Calibre TH81-00 split-seconds chronograph movement, which allows simultaneous timing of multiple intervals. The lightweight case is crafted from light ceramic and white sapphire crystals and the watch’s various design elements pay tribute to Formula 1. Some examples include: the red-tinted translucent dial, asphalt-textured chronograph counters, and the iconic phrase from David Croft — “lights out & away we go.” From the green and red lacquered shield to the hand-finished movement visible through a sapphire caseback, every detail celebrates the brand’s deep-rooted connection to racing.Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]

Another trailblazer in the horology world is Ulysse Nardin, and its latest collection cements the brand as one of the true rulebreakers and innovators in the game. Ulysse Nardin has created the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made with the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]. Weighing at just 52g, the watch features a new high-tech highly skeletonised UN-374 calibre, which can withstand an impact of 5000g. The Diver [AIR] is equipped with two ultralight, elasticated straps in white and orange, fastened with a scratch closing for added practicality. These straps are easily interchangeable, without the need for any tools, ensuring the watch remains as versatile as it is functional. The brand has also used recycled materials wherever possible to ensure a strong focus on sustainability.Piaget Sixtie

For Watches and Wonders 2025, Piaget has unveiled a series of trapeze watches deeply rooted in the maison’s historic codes: the Piaget Sixtie, which echoes the flamboyance that marked the late 1960s. In 1969, Piaget unveiled its 21st Century collection at the Basel Fair. Now, 60 years later, the maison is paying tribute to this heritage with the Sixtie. The watch is meant to adorn the wrist like a jewel, exuding femininity in a sophisticated and delicate way. This high jewellery watch comes in a stainless steel case and 18K pink gold 4N bezel with a white solar satin-brushed dial, and can be worn everyday or for special occasions.Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is the Vacheron Constantin’s most complicated wristwatch ever made, featuring 41 complications. This single-piece edition, the result of eight years of research and development, features a new manufacture movement, Calibre 3665, incorporating five rare astronomical functions — including the temporal tracking of celestial objects.Hermès Maillon Iibre

Hermès has unveiled a bold new take on watchmaking at Watches & Wonders 2025 wiith the Maillon Iibre collection. It reinterprets the iconic anchor chain link as a wristwatch and a brooch watch. With these two timepieces, the line stands out for its radical nature and the multiple ways it can be worn. The wristwatch has a complex structure with diamond or terracotta tourmaline centre stones. It features a discreet, almost imperceptible display of time incorporated into the bracelet design. The brooch watch, meanwhile, can be worn on its own or transformed into a pendant thanks to its leather cordlet, a nod to the brand’s leatherworking-saddlery heritage.Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Flowers

Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled two new designs in its Precious Flowers collection: the Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ – Green Arums, and the Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ – Purple Arums. Exploring the beauty of flowers, both models are presented in pink gold cases and are limited to just 10 pieces each. Fixed by shiny alligator straps that complement the enamel colours, these watches are run by the hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846, a movement shaped by the Maison especially for the Reverso.IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL

Another great novelty from Watches & Wonders 2025 came from IWC Schaffhausen with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL. This marks the first time IWC uses its patented shock absorber system to protect a tourbillon against shocks. The cantilever spring was completely re-designed and adapted to accommodate the IWC-manufactured 82915 calibre with a flying minute tourbillon. To reduce the mass of the movement and maximise the system’s performance, the plates, bridges and the rotor are skeletonised – also offering a better view of the complicated mechanics and the bulk metallic glass shock absorber spring inside. Cyrus Genève Dominion collection

Cyrus Genève has released the new Dominion collection which features a distinctive 42mm round case and a retrograde dual time function. The collection is available in two iterations: Dominion GMT Gold, limited to 25 pieces and Dominion GMT Titanium, limited to 28 pieces. Both watches are driven by the in-house manufacture automatic calibre CYR708, complete with a black alligator leather strap with a pin buckle matching the case materials.

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