Sparrow flies to Mayfair

One of LA’s hippest new eateries, Sparrow Italia, has spread its wings and landed in London’s Mayfair. Occupying the space formerly housing the restaurant Onima in tucked-away Avery Row, the new arrival has a vibrant, place-to-be vibe about it with the goods to back it up, offering the sort of high-end Italian cuisine that would have Stanley Tucci in ecstasies – a modern twist on traditional dishes your nonna used to make. 

There’s a fusion feel to offerings like ahi tuna tartare and Hamachi ceviche, and executive chef A.J. McCloud makes free use of Italian favourites like truffles, Amalfi lemon, pistachios and provolone picante.

But the food doesn’t do all the talking. The décor at the Noble 33 group’s newest eatery more than keeps up with the cuisine – the rooms boast English sophistication, with the only overt nod to the Med several potted olive trees in the middle of the dining rooms: eye-catching to be sure, although I did notice waiters having to dodge low branches as they delivered plates of cacio e pepe. 

The restaurant is split into a downstairs bar, two dining floors and cigar lounge on top, with guests whisked between floors in a cosy lift. On the night we visited it was packed to the gunnels with diners and staff eager to deliver uber-attentive service: mere nanoseconds after each sip of water a waiter would approach me wearing a concerned expression. 

We were greeted at the door by a phalanx of smartly dressed maître d's who spirited away our coats and bags and escorted us into the downstairs bar. Here the feel is of a private members’ club, with dark leather bucket chairs and low gold table lights casting a warm glow over the room. The spectacular marble bar boasts industrial-style gold metal shelves above that give it an Art Deco feel and brought to mind the prow of a glimmering cruise ship.

Maybe that was the Franciacorta talking – I had ordered myself a glass of the delicious fizz from Lombardy – but even as I savoured it I realised I’d missed a trick. There was a theatrical performance going on all over the bar as cocktails were being delivered that were showy, foamy, smoky and occasionally fiery. I admit I had a smidgen of cocktail envy when I spotted the spectacles unfolding in front of excited diners. 

Sparrow Italia’s impressive signature cocktails are all rooted in the flavours of Italy. My partner ordered a dirty martini-like drink, The Liguria, a concoction of gin, herb-infused olive brine and dry vermouth with a swirl of truffle olive oil. He loved it. Next time I’ll indulge my sweet tooth with The Basilicata, a frothy mix of amaro lucano, strawberry, aperol, Campari, lemon, basil, which is delivered with a flourish in a glass dome of strawberry air – quite a way to get the evening started. 

We were called to our table in a stunning room with a leather banquette, linen-covered tables, exposed brick, industrial-style lighting and those olive trees. The neutral palette was enlivened with pops of jewel colours in the drapery and cushions while a bar at one end provided added pizazz. Unintrusive jazz music lent atmosphere but thankfully still allowed us to converse in normal tones. 

We were treated to a delicious plate of salted focaccia as we perused a menu of elevated Italian comfort food. Although I’m a sucker for a charcuterie board, and the likes of duck prosciutto and smoked gouda sounded delectable, my head was turned by the crispy arancini filled with wild mushroom risotto and truffle aioli. My partner went for a braised meatball of herby beef marengo and whipped ricotta. Both were superb and presented beautifully.

For the pasta course, we deliberated about ordering Sparrow’s signature lobster linguine for two, but ultimately agreed to part ways, mainly because I couldn’t resist the sound of pistachio pesto on spaghetti with grana Padana and buffalo ricotta. My instincts were correct – it was silky, fragrant and piquant. My main course of branzino with (more) pistachios and charred lemon was melt-in-the-mouth succulent, and my partner raved about his chicken milanese topped with provolone picante and buffalo mozzarella. Our waitress offered wines to pair with each course, and I can attest to her good taste – I was particularly taken with the 2018 Sicilian Grillo I had with my fish. 

Other imaginative dishes on offer include bone marrow cappelletti with a red wine reduction, a cacio e pepe with truffle and a chicken paillard with fragrant black garlic. 

We finished up dinner with an affogato boasting rum raisins and a Citrus Olive Oil cake with orange marmalade that was zingy. A couple of espressos and a grappa later and we soon were collecting our coats, sated and happy, with the restaurant still thrumming with bustling waiters and chattering diners. 

Even so soon after opening, Sparrow Italia has the confidence and air of a well-established hotspot, which bodes well for its future. It’s destined to become a haunt of those with a taste for high-end Italian food delivered with panache. 

sparrowitalia.com